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Dining details: Jitlada

Jitlada **

LOCATION

5233 1/2 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 663-3104; www.jitlada.localthaifood.com.

AMBIENCE

Lively restaurant where Thais and local hipsters convene for the homey, southern Thai cooking of Suthiporn "Tui" Sungkamee and his sister Sarintip "Jazz" Singsanong. It's prettier than most, with colorful brocade tablecloths, wood carvings and a Matt Groening cartoon on the walls.

SERVICE

Warm and friendly, by the owner and her extended family.

PRICE

Appetizers, soups and salads, $4.95 to $12.95; main courses, $7.95 to $21.95; noodle dishes, $7.95 to $12.95; southern Thai dishes, $6.95 to $24.95.

BEST DISHES

Rice salad, mango salad with peanuts and deep-fried catfish, coconut mango salad with shrimp and cashews; steamed mussels in coconut milk and green curry; raw blue crab salad with green papaya; whole fried sea bass in turmeric spice rub; jungle curry with pork and green eggplant; basil lamb with long beans; stir-fried beef "salt and spicy" -- or whatever Jazz suggests for you, especially the dishes from her village.

WINE LIST

Very basic, most from Clos du Lac or Clos du Bois. Bring your own or go with Thai beer.

BEST TABLE

One in the front corner of the second dining room.

DETAILS

Open 5 to 10:30 p.m. Monday, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday to Sunday. Lot parking. All major credit cards.

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.

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