Notes on this article
Emilie Mutert began reporting for this story as part of her work on a multimedia series, Hunger in the Golden State, produced by Annenberg graduate students in collaboration with California Watch, a project of the Center for Investigative Reporting. The series is available at www.hungerinthegoldenstate.com.
Start your day right
Sign up for Essential California for news, features and recommendations from the L.A. Times and beyond in your inbox six days a week.
You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times.
