DINING OUT

To view the complete Dining Out list, go to latimes.com/restaurantguide

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Prices are for dinner entrees unless otherwise noted.

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Beverly Hills

ARNIE MORTON’S: THE STEAKHOUSE: Super-aged beef at this Chicago-based chain. Specialties: colossal shrimp cocktail, porterhouse, New York strip, filet Diane, double-rib lamb chops, cheesecake. 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 246-1501. $36 to $48.

THE BELVEDERE: Modern American cuisine. Specialties: California duck liver with citrus, beet salad, butter-poached Maine lobster, roasted lamb loin. The Peninsula Beverly Hills, 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., (310) 788-2306. $28 to $42.

THEBLVD: Classy, casual dining room and bar. Specialties: Colorado lamb chops, crisp organic chicken, veal Milanese. The Beverly Wilshire hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., (310) 275-5200. $23 to $43.

CAFE TALESAI: Thai dishes, spirited in flavor and attractively presented. Specialties: Southern Thai border rib-eye, corn fritters, spicy beef salad, jungle curry. 9198 W. Olympic Blvd., (310) 271-9345. $9 to $24.

CHAKRA: The drinks are cute, but the food is heavenly. Specialties: king salmon, goda masala-dusted sea bass, tandoori duck breast, lamb chops. 151 S. Doheny Drive, (310) 246-3999. $16 to $37.

CUT: The Beverly Wilshire hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., (310) 276-8500. $36 to $160. See page 30 for more.

E. BALDI: An offspring of Santa Monica’s Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi. Specialties: carpaccio misto di mare, bastoncini di polenta, lasagnotti, gnocchi with lobster, roasted veal, budino pandoro. 375 N. Canon Drive, (310) 248-2633. $19 to $33.

ENOTECA DRAGO: Celestino Drago’s Italian wine bar and ristorante offers an array of classics. Specialties: salumi, cheeses, rustic pasta dishes, pizza, steak. 410 N. Canon Drive, (310) 786-8236. $11 to $38.

FOGO DE CHAO: Fire-roasted meats are carved tableside at this Brazilian churrascaria. Specialties: picanha, costela de porco. 133 N. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 289-7755. Fixed price, $52.50 per person.

GONPACHI: 134 N. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 659-8887. $40 to $70. See page 16 for more.

THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY: Classic American cooking. Specialties: Caesar salad, chicken pot pie, prime filet on the bone, strawberry shortcake. 9560 Dayton Way, (310) 276-0615. $25 to $40.

GYU-KAKU: Japanese-style barbecue and Korean dishes. Specialties: bibim bap (rice cooked in a stone bowl), kalbi (boneless ribs), grilled desserts. 163 N. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 659-5760. $15 to $35. Also in Pasadena, the South Bay and West Los Angeles.

KATE MANTILINI: Diner fare for a late-night crowd. Specialties: eggs, oysters, burgers, steaks, meatloaf. 9101 Wilshire Blvd., (310) 278-3699. Also in the San Fernando Valley and Westwood. $20 to $38.

LA DOLCE VITA: Italian favorites in a friendly, clubby setting. Specialties: scampi, fettuccine Alfredo, rigatoni Bolognese, steak Sinatra. 9785 S. Santa Monica Blvd., (310) 278-1845. $21 to $39.

LAWRY’S THE PRIME RIB: A streamlined American menu. Specialties: spinning bowl salad, the Lawry cut, C.C. Brown’s hot fudge sundae. 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 652-2827. $29 to $45.

MAKO: Asian fusion in a fresh, contemporary space. Specialties: crispy oysters, diver scallops and baked uni, king crab with black bean sauce, yuzu tart. 225 S. Beverly Drive, (310) 288-8338. $6 to $23.

MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE: Huge portions and aged prime steaks. Specialties: Kansas City strip, veal porterhouse, fried onions, potatoes au gratin. 246 N. Canon Drive, (310) 888-8782. $27 to $83.

MATSUHISA: Where Nobu Matsuhisa honed Peruvian-Japanese fusion. Specialties: sushi, sashimi, squid “pasta,” omakase bar. 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 659-9639. $50 to $100; omakase, starts at $90.

MR. CHOW: Beijing Hollywood-style at this exclusive-feeling favorite. Specialties: scallion pancake, mixed dumplings, lobster two ways, Peking duck. 344 N. Camden Drive, (310) 278-9911. $25 to $45.

NATE ‘N AL: Jewish deli favorites since 1945. Specialties: Nova Scotia salmon, corned beef. 414 N. Beverly Drive, (310) 274-0101. $8 to $17.

NIC’S: 453 N. Canon Drive, (310) 550-5707. $27 to $37. See page 24 for more.

THE PRIME GRILL: High-end steakhouse with a twist: It’s kosher. Specialties: prime beef, seafood, lamb chops, braised lamb shank, grilled lamb sausage. 421 N. Rodeo Drive, (310) 860-1233. $24 to $60.

SPAGO: The ultimate California restaurant, with a courtyard patio and open kitchen. Specialties: handmade agnolotti with Mascarpone, prime cote de boeuf for two, veal Weiner schnitzel. 176 N. Canon Drive, (310) 385-0880. $29 to $52.

TAGINE: North African cuisine gets serious treatment at this Moroccan boite. Specialties: grilled kefta, bestila, braised lamb shank, shrimp tagine. 132 N. Robertson Blvd., (310) 360-7535. $12 to $21.

URASAWA: Elegant Japanese and sushi restaurant with an exquisite kaiseki-style menu. Specialties: sesame tofu, soy milk skin, seared toro or Kobe beef, sushi. 218 N. Rodeo Drive, (310) 247-8939. $275 per person, not including tax, tip or beverages.

Brentwood

BRENTWOOD RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE: California comfort food. Specialties: heirloom tomato salad, burrata caprese, prime New York steak, apple pie. 148 S. Barrington Ave., (310) 476-3511. $15 to $68.

THE CITY BAKERY: An outpost of the well-known New York City bakery. Specialties: pastries, sandwiches, organic salad bar. Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., (310) 656-3040. $2 to $12.

KATSUYA: 11777 San Vicente Blvd., (310) 207-8744. $16 to $38. See page 30 for more.

OSTERIA LATINI: An eclectic menu of regional Italian dishes. Specialties: oven-baked branzino, Alaskan halibut, venison. 11712 San Vicente Blvd., (310) 826-9222. $11 to $36.

PALMERI RISTORANTE: Sicilian-inspired cuisine in an elegant space with a wood-burning oven. Specialties: Margherita pizza; fresh tortelli, tagliatelle and agnolotti; sliced rib-eye. 11650 San Vicente Blvd., (310) 442-8446. $20 to $38.

PECORINO: A standout for its quirky regional menu. Specialties: spaghetti cacio e pepe, stuffed veal chop, pear au gratin. 11604 San Vicente Blvd., (310) 571-3800. $11 to $39.

THE RESTAURANT AT THE GETTY CENTER: California cuisine and a billion-dollar view. Specialties: horseradish-crusted Alaskan halibut, lamb three ways, Cobb salad, brunch dishes. 1200 Getty Center Drive, (310) 440-6810. $20 to $34.

SOR TINO RESTAURANT: Tuscan-style Italian food. Specialties: burrata with tomato and basil, fried calamari, pizzas Margherita and Napoli. 908 S. Barrington Ave., (310) 442-8466. $16 to $35.

TOSCANA: Contemporary Tuscan restaurant. Specialties: risotto with wild mushrooms, bistecca con fagioli (Tuscan-style steak), ricotta cheesecake. 11633 San Vicente Blvd., (310) 820-2448. $13 to $44.

VINCENTI: Seasonal Italian pastas and risotto. Specialties: Dover sole, New York steak, tagliolini with muggine bottarga, bucatini all’Amatriciana. 11930 San Vicente Blvd., (310) 207-0127. $25 to $44.

Century City

CLEMENTINE: Charming cafe and bakery. Specialties: soups, house-cured gravlax, egg salad, thumbprint cookies, gingersnaps. 1751 Ensley Ave., (310) 552-1080. $8 to $12.

LA CACHETTE: Modern French cuisine. Specialties: sardines with potatoes and capers, wild Alaskan king salmon, chocolate souffle. 10506 Little Santa Monica Blvd., (310) 470-4992. $24 to $48.

Culver City

BEACON: Contemporary, fresh ingredients are the focus at this casual Asian cafe. Specialties: ahi tuna pizza, avocado salad, grilled hanger steak. 3280 Helms Ave., (310) 838-7500. $14 to $20.

FORD’S FILLING STATION: Lively gastropub helmed by Ben Ford. Specialties: split-pea soup, polenta cake, fish ‘n’ chips, chocolate malt creme brulee. 9531 Culver Blvd., (310) 202-1470. $14 to $26.

FRAICHE: 9411 Culver Blvd., (310) 839-6800. $10 to $24. See page 18 for more.

INDUSTRY CAFE & JAZZ: East African dishes and Southern soul food. Specialties: breakfast items, vegetarian platter, all-you-can-eat buffet. 6039 W. Washington Blvd., (310) 202-6633. $7 to $14.50.

JR’S BARBEQUE: Memphis-style ‘cue. Specialties: barbecue with spicy, smoke-laden sauce; potato salad; baked beans; peach cobbler; 7-Up cake. 3055 S. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 837-6838. $6 to $23.

K-ZO: Contemporary sushi spot. Specialties: oyster on the half shell with uni and caviar, tako-su, whitefish yuzu. 9240 Culver Blvd., (310) 202-8890. Small plates, $5 to $18; omakase, $48 to $68.

TENDER GREENS: 9523 Culver Blvd., (310) 842-8300. $10. See page 16 for more.

WILSON: Chef Michael Wilson’s “foodbarcafe.” Specialties: roasted sardines with olives, warm potato and herring salad, Jidori chicken with cilantro pesto, slow-roasted pork with African spices. 8631 Washington Blvd., (310) 287-2093. $20 to $26.

Downtown

ANGELIQUE CAFE: Small French cafe in the Fashion District with house-made charcuterie. Specialties: baguette sandwiches, frites, green salad, duck confit. 840 S. Spring St., (213) 623-8698. $12 to $14.

BLUE VELVET: 750 S. Garland Ave., (213) 239-0061. $24 to $32. See page 21 for more.

CAFE PINOT: Contemporary French American food in a Modernist building with an elegant patio. Specialties: Bakersfield French onion soup, yellowfin tuna tartare, three-mustard rotisserie chicken. 700 W. 5th St., (213) 239-6500. $21 to $34.

CHICHEN ITZA: Unique cuisine of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. Specialties: shrimp chilmole, fillet of sole, yellow chiles stuffed with tuna, jicama salad. 2501 W. 6th St., (213) 380-0051. $10 to $28.

CIUDAD: Pan-Latin cooking and a lively bar set the scene. Specialties: Guatemalan chicken tamales, Peruvian ceviche, paella a la Valenciana, carnitas. 445 S. Figueroa St., (213) 486-5171. $25 to $30.

EL TAURINO: A colorful Mexican eatery featuring meat shredded, sliced and smothered. Specialties: barbacoa estilo Texcoco (oven-steamed lamb), beef ribs, baked pork leg with a chile marinade, tacos. 1104 S. Hoover St., (213) 738-9197. $4 to $8.

EMPRESS PAVILION: Bustling Hong Kong-style restaurant with 175 menu selections and 40 to 60 varieties of dim sum on any given day. Specialties: siu mai, pot stickers, barbecued pork. 988 N. Hill St., Suite 201, (213) 617-9898. $10 to $15.

ENGINE CO. NO. 28: Traditional American fare served in a restored 1912 firehouse. Specialties: Engine Co. meatloaf, Southern-style pan-fried chicken, grilled skirt steak, 18-ounce porterhouse. 644 S. Figueroa St., (213) 624-6996. $12 to $33.

KA GA YA: Cook your own at this traditional Japanese shabu-shabu house in Little Tokyo. Specialty: shabu-shabu with beef or seafood. 418 E. 2nd St., (213) 617-1016. $41 to $128.

LANGER’S DELICATESSEN: Opened in 1947, it serves one of the best pastrami sandwiches in the country. Specialty: pastrami on rye, brisket, corned beef. 704 S. Alvarado St., (213) 483-8050. $11 to $20.

MAMA’S HOT TAMALES CAFE: From-scratch Oaxacan, Honduran and Salvadoran-style tamales. Specialties: tamales, Latin American coffees. 2122 W. 7th St., (213) 487-7474. $2.50 to $11.

NICK & STEF’S: Steakhouse by Patina’s Joachim Splichal. Specialties: oysters on the half shell, sirloin burger with garlic French fries, dry-aged New York steak, lemon meringue pie. Wells Fargo Center, 330 S. Hope St., (213) 680-0330. $19 to $50.

NOE: Progressive American with Japanese aesthetics. Specialties: king crab and asparagus roll, lapin (rabbit) confit strudel, hazelnut-crusted ahi. Omni Los Angeles Hotel at California Plaza, 251 S. Olive St., (213) 356-4100. $24 to $45.

THE ORIGINAL PANTRY: American basics done right since 1924. Specialties: Swiss steak, sirloin tips, barbecue spare ribs, New York steak. 877 S. Figueroa St., (213) 972-9279. $7 to $15.

PAPA CRISTO’S GREEK TOWN TAVERNA: Hard-to-find Greek specialties in a casual deli setting just west of downtown. Specialties: rack of lamb, grilled octopus, grilled Greek sausage, sizzling feta cheese. 2771 W. Pico Blvd., (323) 737-2970. $8 to $15.

PATINA: Contemporary dining room at Disney Hall. Specialties: caviar service, sauteed foie gras, Maine lobster and artichoke fricassee, wild salmon with melted leeks, braised veal cheeks. 141 S. Grand Ave., (213) 972-3331. $28 to $39.

PETE’S CAFE & BAR: New York-style bistro food in the Old Bank District. Specialties: “mac & cheese,” blue-cheese fries, the Hellman burger. 400 S. Main St., (213) 617-1000. $15 to $27.

PHILIPPE THE ORIGINAL: American classics served for 99 years. Specialties: French dip sandwiches, potato salad, macaroni salad, coconut-cream pie. 1001 N. Alameda St., (213) 628-3781. $4 to $6.

R-23: Good sushi and excellent Japanese cooked dishes. Specialties: lobster tempura, pine tree mushroom soup, grilled yellowtail, stuffed duck breast. 923 E. 2nd St., Suite 109, (213) 687-7178. $12 to $40.

SOHOJU: “Korean nomadic” food. Specialties: bulgogi beef, japchae chicken, mushroom bap, crunchy salmon salad. 104 Japanese Village Plaza Mall (1st and Central streets), (213) 621-2288. $10 to $13.

TAQUERIA VISTA HERMOSA: Tiny stand in the back of the Mercado La Paloma with dishes from Michoacan. Specialties: ceviche tostada, caldo de camaron (shrimp soup), fish fillet, mojarra frita (fried whole fish). 3655 S. Grand Ave., C-5, (213) 741-1251. $9.

TIARA CAFE: Fashion District spot from the wildly creative Fred Eric. Specialties: Thai Cobb “fresh’wich,” “what came first” pizzette, “True Grits” poached eggs, braised ham hocks, cupcakes. The New Mart building, 127 E. 9th St., (213) 623-3663. $7 to $12.

TRAXX RESTAURANT: White-tablecloth modern American dining at Union Station. Specialties: crab cakes, pork chop, rosemary bread pudding. 800 N. Alameda St., (213) 625-1999. $19 to $28.

WATER GRILL: Quality seafood from chef David LeFevre, with a fresh, global menu that changes daily. Specialties: raw bar, Dungeness and blue crab cake, live Maine lobster. 544 S. Grand Ave., (213) 891-0900. $25 to $49. See page 51 for more.

East and South Los Angeles

BERTHA’S SOUL FOOD: Home cooking from the oldest soul food joint in town. Specialties: gumbo, oxtails in gravy, fried chicken, smothered steak. 1714 W. Century Blvd., (323) 777-3373. $10 to $12.

BIRRIERIA JALISCO: A 35-year-old Mexican restaurant. Specialty: birria (roasted goat meat). 1845 E. 1st St., (323) 262-4552. $8 to $15.

LA PARRILLA: Longtime favorite for traditional Mexican food. Specialties: molcajete Mary Carmen, grilled seafood, shrimp “sandwich,” guacamole. 2126 Cesar E. Chavez Ave., (323) 262-3434. $9 to $12.

LA SERENATA DE GARIBALDI: Beloved Boyle Heights Mexican seafood restaurant. Specialties: quesadillas, sopes, fish tacos, flan. 1842 E. 1st St., (323) 265-2887. Also in Santa Monica and in West Los Angeles as La Serenata Gourmet. $15 to $24.

OTAFUKU: Seiji Akutsu transforms buckwheat dough into the silky strands that are the caviar of Japanese noodles. Specialties: tamagoyaki, kiku-uchi soba, zaru soba with anago ten (fried eel). 16525 S. Western Ave., Gardena, (310) 532-9348. $7 to $12.

PHILLIPS BAR-B-QUE: ‘Cue fans line up for smoky hot ribs at this takeout joint. Specialties: beef and pork ribs, sliced beef sandwiches, spicy sausage links. 4307 Leimert Blvd., (323) 292-7613. 2619 S. Crenshaw Blvd., (323) 731-4772. 1517 Centinela Ave., (310) 412-7135. $10 to $16.

RINCON TAURINO: 13744 Amar Road, La Puente, (626) 918-5606. See listing under San Fernando Valley.

TERESITAS RESTAURANT: Exceptionally well-prepared Mexican food. Specialties: pork ribs in chile negro, chilaquiles (fried tortilla chips in chile sauce). 3826 E. 1st St., (323) 266-6045. $8 to $13.

Glendale/Eagle Rock/Highland Park

CAROUSEL: Serving many variations on hummus and other delicious Mediterranean fare. Specialties: tabbouleh, mutabbal, falafel, kibbeh. 304 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 246-7775. $11 to $23.

CASA BIANCA PIZZA: Popular joint offering some of the best pizza in the city since 1955. 1650 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, (323) 256-9617. $10 to $20.

DAMON’S STEAKHOUSE: Polynesian-themed with a wild tiki bar and jungle vibe. Specialties: beef tenderloin, shrimp cocktail, mai tai, chi chi. 317 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 507-1510. $15 to $30.

EL HUARACHE AZTECA #1: As close as it gets to the simple cooking found deep in Mexico. Specialties: huaraches with meat, onions, cilantro, crema and cheese; marinated pork; aguas frescas. 5225 York Blvd., Highland Park, (323) 478-9572. $1 to $7.

INDOCHINE VIEN: Vietnamese comfort food. Specialties: pho, mung bean and coconut milk crepes filled with shrimp, chicken, tofu, onions. 3110 Glendale Blvd., Glendale, (323) 667-9591. $4.50 to $8.75.

LARKIN’S: 1496 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, (323) 254-0934. $12 to $20. See page 24 for more.

MIA SUSHI: Sleek sushi restaurant. Specialties: sunomono with octopus, tuna tartare, bluefin toro sashimi, bamboo roll, banana tempura. 4741 Eagle Rock Blvd., Eagle Rock, (323) 256-2562. $8 to $18.

PHOENICIA: There’s live music and belly dancing at this Middle Eastern/Lebanese restaurant. Specialties: hot and cold meze, kebabs. 343 N. Central Ave., Glendale, (818) 956-7800. Multi-course dinners, $19 to $29 per person.

PORTO’S BAKERY: Cafe with Latin American-style sandwiches and delicious pastries. Specialties: meat pies, potato balls, guava and cheese pastries. 315 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 956-5996. Also in the San Fernando Valley. $3.55 to $6.45.

ZEKE’S SMOKEHOUSE: Classic barbecue and American sides. Specialties: baby back ribs, spare ribs, brisket, pulled pork sandwich, hush puppies. 2209 Honolulu Ave., Montrose, (818) 957-7045. Also in West Hollywood. $7 to $25.

Hollywood

AMMO: Modern American fare. Specialties: grilled hanger steak, baby artichoke pizza, pappardelle with Bolognese sauce, ice cream sandwiches. 1155 N. Highland Ave., (323) 871-2666. $24 to $32.

BELLA CUCINA ITALIANA: Trendy retro-Italian with a late-night crowd. Specialties: plate of prosciutto, baked eggplant, penne arrabiata, ravioli with spinach and ricotta, pounded veal loin. 1708 N. Las Palmas Ave., (323) 468-8815. $18 to $28.

CHARCOAL: Mesquite grill next to the ArcLight. Specialties: crab cake burger, prime hanger steak, cheeseburger, gaucho skirt steak. 6360 W. Sunset Blvd., (323) 465-8500. $13 to $26.

CHEEBO: Italian cafe with inspired toppings for billowy-crust pizza. Specialties: pizza, house-made ravioli, the Cheebo Chop salad. 7533 W. Sunset Blvd., (323) 850-7070. $14 to $29.

CITIZEN SMITH: Southern-leaning American comfort food. Specialties: chopped steak sliders, Cajun barbecue shrimp, fried chicken. 1600 N. Cahuenga Blvd., (323) 461-5001. $16 to $42

DAKOTA: Ultra-trendy chophouse. Specialties: Kumamoto oysters, steak tartare, veal chop, potato gratin. Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., (323) 769-8888. $28 to $60.

THE GRIDDLE CAFE: American breakfast and lunch classic. Specialties: “Bluesberry” flapjacks, Mom’s French toast. 7916 W. Sunset Blvd., (323) 874-0377. $6 to $10.

THE HUNGRY CAT: East Coast-inspired seafood from chef-owner David Lentz. Specialties: raw bar, Alaskan king crab legs. 1535 N. Vine St., (323) 462-2155. Also in Santa Barbara. $15 to $30.

LOU: 724 N. Vine St., (323) 962-6369. $6 to $17. See page 28 for more.

MAGNOLIA: Updated American diner food in an inviting modernist boite. Specialties: macaroni and cheese, fried calamari, skirt steak. 62661/2 Sunset Blvd., (323) 467-0660. $14 to $30.

MUSSO & FRANK GRILL: Old-school waiters and a bar that makes the best martinis in town. Specialties: double-cut lamb chops, steaks. 6667 Hollywood Blvd., (323) 467-7788. $15 to $38.

PROVIDENCE: 5955 Melrose Ave., (323) 460-4170. $32 to $48; tasting menus, $80 and $105. See pages 30 and 35 for more.

RED PEARL KITCHEN: Lively Asian-themed restaurant and lounge. Specialties: tuna tartare with tempura eggplant, strawberry-cinammon ribs. 6703 Melrose Ave., (323) 525-1415. $10 to $19.

25 DEGREES: Tim and Liza Goodell’s burger bar. Specialty: 9-ounce freshly ground sirloin build-your-own burger. Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., (323) 785-7244. $10 to $20.

Huntington Park/Bell/Downey

CEBICHE DEL REY: Exotic grills and Peruvian criolla dishes. Specialties: ceviche, papa rellena, chupe de camarones, arroz con mariscos. 7404 Florence Ave., Downey, (562) 806-4033. $5 to $27.

CENADURIA LA CASITA MEXICANA: Modest family-run Mexican eatery. Specialties: quesadillas, mole poblano, chicken pipian, pozole. 4030 E. Gage Ave., Bell, (323) 773-1898. $7 to $11.

YA YA’S BURGERS: Choose from 69 varieties of Mexico City-style sandwiches. Specialties: torta alemana (spicy sausage with bacon and American cheese), torta tepiqueoa (roast pork). 3202 E. Gage Ave., Huntington Park, (323) 581-2383. $3 to $9.

Koreatown

EL CHOLO: Nostalgic Mexican with large portions and a variety of margaritas. Specialties: Sonora-style enchiladas, tacos al carbon, carnitas plate. 1121 S. Western Ave., (323) 734-2773. Also in Santa Monica, Pasadena and Orange County. $7 to $14.

JIN SANG: Japanese and Korean dishes. Specialties: shabu-shabu, sukiyaki, kimchi ball (shrimp, tuna, vegetables and kimchi wrapped in cabbage). 2949 W. Olympic Blvd., (213) 387-1600. $16 to $31.

L.A. OMOGARI: Connoisseurs of kimchi will be delighted with the dishes at this Korean restaurant. Specialties: kimchi fried rice, kimchi or buchu pancake, buckwheat noodle platter, steamed beef short ribs. 901 S. Western Ave., (323) 734-4900. $11 to $24.

OPUS RESTAURANT: 3760 Wilshire Blvd., (213) 738-1600. $25 to $40. See pages 24 and 51 for more.

PARK’S BAR-B-Q: Grill-your-own barbecue. Specialties: pork belly, marinated kalbi, rib-eye steak, seafood pancake, pan chan (side dishes). 955 S. Vermont Ave., (213) 380-1717. $15 to $30.

SI GOL: Traditional Korean meets 21st century style. Specialties: pork bulgogi, Si Gol Special. 480 N. Western Ave., (323) 467-0100. $16 to $23.

SOOT BULL JEEP: Grill-your-own Korean barbecue over real charcoal at tabletop braziers. Specialties: beef, pork, squid and short ribs. 3136 W. 8th St., (213) 387-3865. $16 to $20.

TAYLOR’S STEAK HOUSE: Dark, cozy and all about the meat for more than 50 years. Specialties: Molly salad, porterhouse steak, cottage fries, London broil, apple pie a la mode. 3361 W. 8th St., (213) 382-8449. Also in La Canada Flintridge. $16 to $33.

Long Beach

ENRIQUE’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT: Jalisco-style dishes with a fanciful touch. Specialties: pasillas asados, house pork shank. 6210-12 E. Pacific Coast Highway, (562) 498-3622. $6 to $19.

555 EAST AMERICAN STEAKHOUSE: A classic, with one of the best wine lists in Long Beach. Specialties: prime New York strip steak, oven-roasted rack of lamb, hearts of romaine. 555 E. Ocean Blvd., (562) 437-0626. $16 to $42.

FRENCHY’S BISTRO: Traditional French food with a modern, light touch. Specialties: sauteed sand dabs, crispy duck in orange sauce, dessert souffles. 4137 E. Anaheim St., (562) 494-8787. $20 to $30.

JAY BHARAT: Transporting Indian fare. Specialties: chilli paneer, khasta kachori, punjabi thali, cholay bhatura. 18701 Pioneer Blvd., Artesia, (562) 924-3310. $3 to $10.

JOHNNY REBS’: Down-home roadhouse with peanut shells on the floor and good Southern barbecue. Specialties: barbecued beef and pork, fried catfish and chicken, collard greens, black-eyed peas. 4663 Long Beach Blvd., (562) 423-7327. $8 to $22.

JONGEWAARD’S BAKE ‘N’ BROIL: Homey coffee shop. Specialties: hamburgers, chicken pot pie, house-baked carrot and German chocolate cakes, fresh fruit and cream pies. 3697 Atlantic Ave., (562) 595-0396. $8 to $11.

KING’S FISH HOUSE: Bustling casual seafood spot at the heart of downtown’s Pine Avenue. Specialties: oysters on the half shell, Pacific Northwest wild salmon, Maryland soft-shell crab. 100 W. Broadway Ave., (562) 432-7463. $17 to $35.

TIRUPATHI BHIMAS: Fast-food vegetarian. Specialties: mini tiffin, channa batura, uthappam. 18792 Pioneer Blvd., Artesia, (562) 809-3806. $4 to $10.

WOODLANDS: South Indian vegetarian food and amazing crepes and breads. Specialties: paper masala dosa, channa batura, bagala bath. 11833 Artesia Blvd., Artesia, (562) 860-6500. $7 to $8.

Los Feliz/Silver Lake/Echo Park

ALCOVE CAFE & BAKERY: Classic American food and strong coffee. Specialties: pastries, omelets, huevos rancheros, smoked salmon stack. 1929 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz, (323) 644-0100. $9 to $12.

BLAIR’S: Lively neighborhood restaurant featuring hearty American fare. Specialties: shrimp cocktail and deviled eggs, crab cakes, pan-roasted salmon, short ribs. 2903 Rowena Ave., Silver Lake, (323) 660-1882. $18 to $32.

CAFE STELLA: With its lovely courtyard, a charming substitute for an airline ticket to Paris. Specialties: charcuterie plate, steak frites au poivre, pot au chocolat, 28 wines by the glass. 3932 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, (323) 666-0265. $17 to $34.

CANELE: 3219 Glendale Blvd., Atwater Village, (323) 666-7133. $9 to $22. See page 28 for more.

CLIFF’S EDGE: Secluded spot serving California Italian fare with French influences. Specialties: brunch dishes, Caesar salad, bruschetta, grilled filet mignon, roasted black cod. 3626 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, (323) 666-6116. $15 to $22.

COBRAS & MATADORS: Tapas and a young bohemian crowd. Specialties: Pa amb tomaquet, socca cakes, sweet potato fries, barbecued skirt steak, churros. 4655 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz, (323) 669-3922. Also on Beverly Boulevard. $5 to $18.

GINGERGRASS: Casual Vietnamese fare. Specialties: imperial rolls, Mako’s salad, pho. 2396 Glendale Blvd., Silver Lake, (323) 644-1600. $9 to $16.

SQUARE ONE: 4854 Fountain Ave., Los Angeles. (323) 661-1109. Breakfast and lunch dishes, $7.25 to $12.50. See page 28 for more.

TAIX FRENCH RESTAURANT: Country French fare since 1927. Specialties: escargots, steamed black mussels, roast chicken, bistro steak. 1911 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, (213) 484-1265. $14 to $27.

TIGEORGES’ CHICKEN: Haitian-style rotisserie chicken. Specialties: wood-fired chicken, lime juice-marinated goat, Haitian cafe au lait. 309 Glendale Blvd., Echo Park, (213) 353-9994. $7 to $15.

VERMONT: Thriving American bistro with a loyal following. Specialties: “Michael’s favorite” salad, crab cakes, steamed Prince Edward Island mussels, pepper steak, braised lamb shanks. 1714 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz, (323) 661-6163. $16 to $38.

YUCA’S: Family-run Mexican taco shack. Specialty: Yucatan-inspired cochinita pibil burritos. 2056 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz, (323) 662-1214. $2 to $4.75.

Malibu

GEOFFREY’S: California seafood and gorgeous view. Specialties: scallops, ahi tartare, mai tais, chocolate and hazelnut tart. 27400 Pacific Coast Highway, (310) 457-1519. $25 to $58.

MOONSHADOWS: American menu with Asian and Mediterranean accents. Specialties: spicy ahi tuna tartare, sake-braised short ribs. 20356 Pacific Coast Highway, (310) 456-3010. $21 to $34.

NOBU MALIBU: Japanese menu from Nobu Matsuhisa. Specialties: sushi, sashimi, soft-shell crab spring roll, whole grilled fish. 3835 Cross Creek Road, (310) 317-9140. $6 to $32; omakase, $80 to $120.

Marina del Rey

ANTICA PIZZERIA: Thin-crusted Neapolitan-style pizza. Specialties: soy flour pasta, lasagna, Margherita pizza, gnocchi. Villa Marina Marketplace, 13455 Maxella Ave., (310) 577-8182. $11 to $21.

AUNT KIZZY’S BACK PORCH: Down-home soul food. Specialties: fried chicken and a range of sides, including collard greens, corn bread dressing, rice and beans. Villa Marina Marketplace, 4325 Glencoe Ave., (310) 578-1005. $9.95 to $19.95.

JER-NE: California-themed menu. Specialties: Kobe beef carpaccio, pan-seared foie gras, Colorado lamb. Ritz-Carlton Marina del Rey, 4375 Admiralty Way, (310) 574-4333. $28 to $42.

UNCLE DARROW’S CAJUN/CREOLE EATERY: Try the “Big Easy Supper”--a combination of catfish fillet, shrimp and oysters. Specialties: red beans and rice, jambalaya, file gumbo, po’ boy sandwiches. 2560 S. Lincoln Blvd., (310) 306-4862. $7 to $23.

Melrose/Beverly/3rd Street

ALL’ ANGELO: Inviting, comfortable space with an Italian crowd. Specialties: veal, pork ribs, pasta with langoustines, ravioli. 7166 Melrose Ave., (323) 933-9540. $16 to $35.

ANGELI CAFFE: Rustic, regional Italian fare. Specialties: cacciucco livornese (fish soup), pasta, pizza, roasted half chicken. 7274 Melrose Ave., (323) 936-9086. $15 to $20.

ANGELINI OSTERIA: Lively Italian restaurant with closely packed tables. Specialties: pizza with burrata and tomato, bombolotti all’ amatriciana, branzino, grilled bistecca alla Fiorentina, lasagna verde. 7313 Beverly Blvd., (323) 297-0070. $23 to $38.

A.O.C.: Suzanne Goin’s sophisticated wine and food bar. Specialties: chicken liver crostini, bacon-wrapped dates, house-made charcuterie, cheeses. 8022 W. 3rd St., (323) 653-6359. $9 to $15.

BLD: 7450 Beverly Blvd., (323) 930-9744. $15 to $26. See page 28 for more.

BLOOM CAFE: 5544 W. Pico Blvd., (323) 934-6900. $10 to $17. See page 28 for more.

CAMPANILE: Beloved Cal-Mediterranean where chef-owner Mark Peel mans the grill. Specialties: agnolotti, prime rib, grilled ocean trout, pan-roasted pork chop, apple huckleberry tart, Meyer lemon beignet. 624 S. La Brea Ave., (323) 938-1447. $20 to $45.

CANTER’S: Deli and bakery classics since 1931. Specialties: corned beef and pastrami sandwiches, potato pancakes, matzo ball soup, cheesecake. 419 N. Fairfax Ave., (323) 651-2030. $13 to $17.

CELADON: 7910 W. 3rd St., (323) 658-8028. $17 to $24. See page 30 for more.

CHAMEAU: Smart, contemporary French Moroccan food. Specialties: duck bestial, homemade couscous, lamb shoulder tagine. 339 N. Fairfax Ave., (323) 951-0039. $19 to $24.

CHAYA BRASSERIE: Japanese dishes with French and Italian accents. Specialties: chicken Dijon, grilled lamb chops, grilled wild salmon, butterscotch creme brulee. 8741 Alden Drive, (310) 859-8833. Also in Venice as Chaya Venice. $17 to $33.

COBRAS & MATADORS: 7615 Beverly Blvd., (323) 932-6178. See listing under Los Feliz.

DU-PAR’S RESTAURANT & BAKERY: A farm-fresh approach to American classics. Specialties: chicken pot pies, buttermilk pancakes, fruit pies, French-press coffee. Farmers Market, 6333 W. 3rd St., (323) 933-8446. $10 to $15.

THE FOUNDRY ON MELROSE: 7465 Melrose Ave., (323) 651-0915. $23 to $30. See page 15 for more.

GRACE: New American dining and a young bar scene. Specialties: risotto with pumpkin and sea urchin, tenderloin of wild boar, king crab salad. 7360 Beverly Blvd., (323) 934-4400. $25 to $40.

HATFIELD’S: 7458 Beverly Blvd., (323) 935-2977. $29 to $36. See pages 30, 36 and 51 for more.

THE IVY: Best for people-watching, with a contemporary American menu. Specialties: corn chowder, crab cakes, mesquite-grilled fish, homemade pastas. 113 N. Robertson Blvd., (310) 274-8303. $22 to $52.

JAR: Sleek, contemporary chophouse from chef-owner Suzanne Tracht. Specialties: tomato and sweet onion salad, fried Ipswich clams, pot roast, dry-aged steaks, ice cream sundae. 8225 Beverly Blvd., (323) 655-6566. $20 to $46.

JOAN’S ON THIRD: Delicious morning pastries, sandwiches and desserts. Specialties: tarragon chicken salad, grilled vegetables Provencal, turkey meatloaf, homemade mini cupcakes. 8350 W. 3rd St., (323) 655-2285. $8 to $12.

LA TERZA: Italian fare from Gino Angelini and his two partners. Specialties: spinach ravioli, pork belly, rotisserie duck, grilled cuttlefish, fruit fritters. 8384 W. 3rd St., (323) 782-8384. $24 to $38.

LOTERIA GRILL: Colorful taqueria where everything is made from scratch. Specialties: enchiladas; beef, pork or potato tacos. Farmers Market, 6333 W. 3rd St., No. 322, (323) 930-2211. $3 to $15.

LUNA PARK: Eclectic American dishes with French, Italian and Asian influences. Specialties: pork satay, moules frites, baby spinach salad, flatiron steak. 672 S. La Brea Ave., (323) 934-2110. $7 to $15.

M CAFE DE CHAYA: Chic macrobiotic cafe. Specialties: breakfast panini, wild salmon Benedict, tuna tataki, tuna burger, Linzer cookies, black cherry almond muffins. 7119 Melrose Ave., (323) 525-0588. Sandwiches and burgers, $9 to $14.

MIMOSA: Inviting French bistro. Specialties: salad of haricots verts, bouillabaisse, pork rillettes, steak frites, tarte flambee. 8009 Beverly Blvd., (323) 655-8895. $15 to $30.

ORTOLAN: Contemporary French cuisine. Specialties: baby scallops with morels, crispy langoustines with a shot of minestrone. 8338 W. 3rd St., (323) 653-3300. $21 to $41.

PASTIS: Sweet bistro offering French country food and wine dinners. Specialties: frisee salad with poached egg and lardons, dry-aged rib-eye steak. 8114 Beverly Blvd., (323) 655-8822. $18 to $29.

PIZZERIA MOZZA: 641 N. Highland Ave., (323) 297-0101. Salumi, $12 to $24 for a mixed platter; pizza, $9 to $17. See page 16 for more.

SIMON LA: Sofitel Los Angeles, 8555 Beverly Blvd., (310) 358-3979. $18 to $48. See page 24 for more.

Sona: French cuisine from chef David Myers. Specialties: Maine lobster risotto, Australian sea bass, prime beef tenderloin. 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 659-7708. $34 to $48. See page 35 for more.

SUSHI ROKU: 8445 W. 3rd St., (323) 655-6767. See listing under Pasadena. Also in Santa Monica.

TABLE 8: Fine dining from chef Govind Armstrong. Specialties: Kobe-style beef, Kurobuta pork. 7661 Melrose Ave., (323) 782-8258. $24 to $32.

TASCA WINE BAR: A Spanish Mediterranean theme. Specialties: cured meats, potatoes with chorizo sausage, steak frites. 8108 W. 3rd St., (323) 951-9890. Small plates, $6 to $16; entrees, $15 to $23.

THE VILLAGE IDIOT: Traditional pub fare alongside modern American dishes. Specialties: fish and chips, steak-and-potato pie, apple tart. 7383 Melrose Ave., (323) 655-3331. $10 to $23.

XIOMARA: Cuban with a light French or Asian accent. Specialties: black bean soup, codfish fritters, rock shrimp tamale, duck ropa vieja, mojitos. 6101 Melrose Ave., (323) 461-0601. $16.50 to $32.

Pasadena

750 ML: Moderately priced wine bar. Specialties: baby artichoke salad, steak frites, cassoulet, braised beef shoulder, chocolate pot de creme. 966 Mission St., South Pasadena, (626) 799-0711. $20 to $30.

BISTRO 45: California French cooking in an Art Deco building. Specialties: diver scallops, braised veal short ribs, warm lemon vacherin cake. 45 S. Mentor Ave., (626) 795-2478. $20 to $30.

CAFE BIZOU: An expansion of the California French bistro in Sherman Oaks. Specialties: lobster and salmon ravioli, braised short ribs, house-made bread pudding. 91 N. Raymond Ave., (626) 792-9923. Also in the San Fernando Valley. $13 to $22.

THE DINING ROOM: Modern American cuisine from Craig Strong. Specialties: stuffed squash blossom, grilled lamb rack and loin. The Ritz-Carlton, Huntington Hotel & Spa, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., (626) 568-3900. $38 to $45. See page 35 for more.

EL CHOLO: 958 S. Fair Oaks Ave., (626) 441-4353. See listing under Koreatown. Also in Orange County and Santa Monica.

FIREFLY BISTRO: Spirited, slightly bohemian modern American fare. Specialties: pecan-coated catfish, grilled flatiron steak. 1009 El Centro St., (626) 441-2443. $16 to $28.

GYU-KAKU: 70 W. Green St., (626) 405-4842. See listing under Beverly Hills. Also in South Bay and West Los Angeles.

MAISON AKIRA: Graceful French cooking with Japanese flair. Specialties: duck foie gras, miso-marinated Chilean sea bass, warm flourless chocolate cake. 713 E. Green St., (626) 796-9501. $28 to $45.

PARKWAY GRILL: Long-running California restaurant with wood-burning pizza oven and lively bar scene. Specialties: pizza, soups, angel hair pasta, mustard-grilled beef short ribs, fire-grilled lamb chops. 510 S. Arroyo Parkway, (626) 795-1001. $21 to $29.

THE RAYMOND: Longtime brunch spot. Specialties: braised short ribs, lobster and shrimp ravioli. 1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave., (626) 441-3136. $26 to $34.

SALADANG SONG: Authentic Thai cooking. Specialties: green papaya salad, coconut shrimp, pad Thai noodles, green curry with eggplant. 383 S. Fair Oaks Ave., (626) 793-5200. $8 to $20.

SUSHI ROKU: Japanese fusion. Specialties: yellowtail sashimi, filet mignon-wrapped asparagus, rock shrimp tempura. 33 Miller Alley at One Colorado, (626) 683-3000. Also on 3rd Street in Los Angeles and in Santa Monica. $14 to $32.

TAYLOR’S STEAK HOUSE: 901 Foothill Blvd., La Canada Flintridge, (818) 790-7668. See listing under Koreatown.

TRATTORIA TRE VENEZIE: Northeastern Italian cuisine. Specialties: prosciutto di San Daniele del Friuli, poppy seed ravioli, house-smoked pork chop. 119 W. Green St., (626) 795-4455. $18 to $27.

VERTICAL WINE BISTRO: More than a humble hangout for oenophiles. Specialties: charcuterie, cheeses, date poppers, jumbo prawns, grilled skirt steak. 70 N. Raymond Ave., (626) 795-3999. $13 to $24.

YUJEAN KANG’S: Classic Chinese dishes and some experimentation. Specialties: Chinese corn chowder, braised black cod, chicken with silk squash. 67 N. Raymond Ave., (626) 585-0855. $12 to $18.

San Fernando Valley

ART’S DELI: The definitive Valley deli with the best corned beef and pastrami on the boulevard. Specialties: corned beef sandwich, “I want it all” chicken soup, short ribs in the pot. 12224 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 762-1221. $10 to $16.

THE BISTRO GARDEN AT COLDWATER: French bistro and Continental fare. Specialties: lobster bisque, shellfish platter, chocolate souffle. 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 501-0202. $17 to $36.

BISTRO PROVENCE: French Mediterranean classics. Specialties: endive and watercress salad, roast chicken, beef Bourguignon, cassoulet. 345 N. Pass Ave., Burbank, (818) 840-9050. $15 to $19.

BONEYARD BISTRO: Lively rib joint and bistro. Specialties: Caesar salad, Thai-spiced calamari, tri-tip, beef ribs, fried mac ‘n’ cheese. 13539 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 906-7427. $13 to $40.

CAFE BIZOU: 14016 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 788-3536. See listing under Pasadena.

CHADAKA THAI: Thai food for the health-conscious. Specialties: spring rolls, curries, “crying tiger” rib-eye steak, pear salad. 310 N. San Fernando Blvd., Burbank, (818) 848-8520. $8 to $18.

EIGHT-18: Big food on small plates at this crowded wine bar. Specialties: crab cakes with aioli, braised short ribs, filet mignon, duck confit. 10151 Riverside Drive, Toluca Lake, (818) 761-4243. $6 to $15.

KATE MANTILINI: Warner Center, 5921 Owensmouth Ave., Woodland Hills, (818) 348-1095. Also in Westwood. See listing under Beverly Hills.

MAX: California Asian dishes. Specialties: lumpia (shrimp and pork spring rolls), Thai lemon grass-coconut soup, lobster risotto. 13355 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 784-2915. $18 to $30.

MINIBAR: Small plates with global influences. Specialties: yucca bread, cactus shrimp, veal meatballs, marshmallow stew. 3413 Cahuenga Blvd. West, Studio City, (323) 882-6965. $5 to $16.

NATAS PASTRIES: L.A.’s only Portuguese bakery. Specialties: natas, bola de Berlin, morgado, chocolate mousse. 13317 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 788-8050. $2 to $3.50.

PANZANELLA: Italian classics. Specialties: frutti di mare, fried calamari, bresaola with arugula, osso buco, beef carpaccio. 14928 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 784-4400. $11 to $30.

PINOT BISTRO: Updated French bistro fare from the Patina Group. Specialties: endive and watercress salad, slow-roasted chicken with garlic frites, croissant bread pudding. 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 990-0500. $17 to $25.

PORTO’S BAKERY: 3614 W. Magnolia Blvd., Burbank, (818) 846-9100. See listing under Glendale.

RINCON TAURINO: Central Mexico-style beef, pork and lamb barbecue. Specialties: barbacoa y pancita, marinated leg of pig, carne asada. 14551 Nordhoff St., Panorama City, (818) 893-5927. 8708 Van Nuys Blvd., Panorama City, (818) 892-7444. Also in East Los Angeles. $3 to $9.

ROMANOV: Russian haute cuisine meets the traditional steakhouse. Specialties: borscht, sturgeon baked with cheese, beef stroganoff. 12229 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 760-3177. $24 to $41. See page 30 for more.

SPARK WOODFIRE GRILL: 11801 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 623-8883. See listing under Orange County. Also in West Los Angeles.

THE STAND: Hot dogs taken to new heights, plus hand-squeezed lemonade and root beer and cream soda on tap. 17000 Ventura Blvd., Encino, (818) 788-2700. $3 to $8.

SUSHI NOZAWA: High-speed Japanese dining. Specialties: hamachi (yellowtail), toro, albacore, sweet shrimp, uni, octopus sushi. 11288 Ventura Blvd., Suite C, Studio City, (818) 508-7017. $30 to $50.

SUSHI YOTSUYA: This modest sushi bar is a haven for the sushi purist. Specialties: omakase, crab jelly, Kumamoto oysters, rice with salmon roe, crab hand roll. 18760 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana, (818) 708-9675. Omakase, $55 to $80 per person.

SWINGING DOOR: Terrific Lone Star ‘cue slow-cooked over oak or mesquite. Specialties: baby back ribs; chopped tri-tip, brisket, chicken or pork sausage sandwiches. 11018 Vanowen St., North Hollywood, (818) 763-8996. Combo plates, $8.50 to $13.50; sandwiches, $6.50 to 9.

San Gabriel Valley

CHUNG KING RESTAURANT: A hole-in-the-wall with a huge menu of fiery Sichuan cuisine. Specialties: Sichuan wontons, dried beef slices fried with Sichuan hot peppers. 206 S. Garfield Ave., Monterey Park, (626) 280-7430. $6 to $13.

DEERFIELD GARDEN: Tiny Chinese spot. Specialty: jing do rou bing (fried flatbread stuffed with minced pork). 130 S. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park, (626) 284-3867. $4 to $7.

ELITE RESTAURANT: Beautifully crafted Chinese food and a terrific dim sum menu. Specialties: dim sum, soy sauce chicken, house special lobster. 700 S. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park, (626) 282-9998. Dim sum, $2 to $6; chef’s recommendations, $11 to $16; live seafood, market price.

HONG KONG PALACE: Elegant Chinese seafood and dim sum. Specialties: shrimp dumplings, barbecue pork pastries, pork riblets with black beans, sweet tofu. 19101 E. Colima Road, Rowland Heights, (626) 854-9829. Dim sum, $5 to $15 per person.

THE KITCHEN: Hong Kong-style Cantonese restaurant. Specialties: shiu mai with crab meat, chive shrimp dumplings, seaweed salad, barbecued pork buns. 203 W. Valley Blvd., Alhambra, (626) 289-4828. Dim sum, $10 to $15 per person.

LAKE SPRING SHANGHAI: One of the best in a city full of wonderful Chinese restaurants. Specialties: dumplings, pork “pump.” 219 E. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park, (626) 280-3571. $10 to $20.

MACAU STREET: Colonial-influenced southern Chinese food. Specialties: roasted pig neck, baked oysters with wine, egg custard tarts. 429 W. Garvey Ave., Monterey Park, (626) 288-3568. $5 to $10.

MAYUMBA CUBAN RESTAURANT: Home-style Cuban favorites. Specialties: Cuban sandwiches, roast pork, paella, brisket. Rosemead Place mall, 3514 Rosemead Blvd., (626) 572-9558. $12 to $20.

MISSION 261: The next best thing to a trip to Hong Kong or Taiwan at this dim sum palace. Specialties: taro dumplings, steamed shrimp dumplings, deep-fried pigeon. 261 S. Mission Drive, San Gabriel, (626) 588-1666. Dim sum, $2 to $7.

OCEAN STAR: Hong Kong-style Cantonese seafood and dim sum restaurant that seats 800 or more. Specialties: boiled live shrimp, Dungeness crab, braised squab. 145 N. Atlantic Blvd., Monterey Park, (626) 308-2128. $8 to market price.

PHLIGHT RESTAURANT: Family-owned wine bar. Specialties: sweet potato fries, chicken kelaguen, flatiron steak. 6724 Bright Ave., Whittier, (562) 789-0578. Small plates, $5 to $21.

RESTAURANT DEVON: California French in a converted 1890s carriage house. Specialties: crab cakes, stuffed quail, steak in Port reduction. 109 E. Lemon Ave., Monrovia, (626) 305-0013. $15 to $29.

SEA HARBOUR SEAFOOD: The U.S. venture of a Chinese chain. Specialties: hot-and-sour seafood soup, egg yolk meat patty, salt-based chicken, red rock cod. 3939 N. Rosemead Blvd., Rosemead, (626) 288-3939. $10 to $20.

TRIUMPHAL PALACE: Flawlessly executed Chinese dishes. Specialties: salt-and-pepper crab, steamed live prawns, fire-roasted pork belly, lamb chops in honey and pepper, steamed whole rock cod. 500 W. Main St., Alhambra, (626) 308-3222. $10 to $20.

Santa Monica

ABODE: 1541 Ocean Ave., (310) 394-3463. $29 to $75. See page 30 for more.

BOA: Contemporary steakhouse. Specialties: jumbo lump crab cake, dry-aged New York strip, New Zealand lamb T-bones. 101 Santa Monica Blvd., (310) 899-4466. Also in West Hollywood. $26 to $40.

BORDER GRILL: South-of-the-border cooking. Specialties: tortilla soup, chicken panuchos, plantain empanadas, ceviches, carnitas, grilled skirt steak. 1445 4th St., (310) 451-1655. $16 to $27.

BRASS.-CAP: Brasserie on the beach offering American French dishes. Specialties: beef Bourguignon, loup de mer, steak tartare, four-cheese ravioli. 100 W. Channel Road, (310) 454-4544. $18 to $38.

THE BUFFALO CLUB: Sophisticated American supper club. Specialties: shrimp and lobster dumplings, lamb rack chops, braised lobster. 1520 Olympic Blvd., (310) 450-8600. $24 to $30.

CAPO: Clubby 16-table restaurant where meats, poultry and seafood are grilled in a wood-burning fireplace. Specialties: heirloom tomato-vegetable salad, tortelli quattro formaggi, New York steak. 1810 Ocean Ave., (310) 394-5550. $22 to $54.

CATCH RESTAURANT & SUSHI BAR: Hotel Casa del Mar, 1910 Ocean Way, (310) 581-7714. $23 to $29. See page 16 for more.

CHEZ JAY: Longtime watering hole with an American menu. Specialties: sand dabs, steak au poivre, scampi, La Jolla potato. 1657 Ocean Ave., (310) 395-1741. $17 to market price.

CHEZ MIMI: Simple fare in a setting reminiscent of a French country auberge. Specialties: chilled cucumber soup, vichyssoise, mushroom salad, poulet Chez Helene, calf’s liver, flourless chocolate cake. 246 26th St., (310) 393-0558. $17.50 to $35.

CHINOIS ON MAIN: The biggest menu change in 20 years is one reason to rediscover this irresistible spot. Specialties: sweet Maine crab and pork siu mai, stir-fried Sonoma lamb, braised veal cheeks. 2709 Main St., (310) 392-9025. $30 to $60.

DRAGO: Celestino Drago’s take on contemporary Italian cuisine. Specialties: risotto primavera, Mediterranean striped bass. 2628 Wilshire Blvd., (310) 828-1585. $13 to $35.

EL CHOLO: 1025 Wilshire Blvd., (310) 899-1106. See listing under Koreatown. Also in Orange County and Pasadena.

FATHER’S OFFICE: Popular spot for upscale beers and outstanding bar food. Specialties: tapas, Office Burger, Maryland soft-shell crab. 1018 Montana Ave., (310) 393-2337. $9.50 to $15.

THE HUMP: Japanese spot at the Santa Monica Airport. Specialties: amaebi shrimp, tempura, soft-shell crab, toro sushi or sashimi. 3221 Donald Douglas Loop South, (310) 313-0977. $6 to $22.

IL RISTORANTE DI GIORGIO BALDI: Tuscan fare near the beach. Specialties: pasta e fagioli, fettuccine, gnocchi, veal cutlet, torta della nonna. 114 W. Channel Road, (310) 573-1660. $12 to $37.

IVY AT THE SHORE: American comfort food in a nautical- and tropical-themed setting. Specialties: corn chowder, pizza, grilled vegetable salad, fried chicken. 1535 Ocean Ave., (310) 393-3113. $15 to $46.

JIRAFFE: California French restaurant from surfer-chef Raphael Lunetta. Specialties: roasted tomato tart, wild mushroom and aged Gouda ravioli. 502 Santa Monica Blvd., (310) 917-6671. $25 to $38.

JOSIE: Cozy spot with a semi-open kitchen and New American fare. Specialties: grilled cuttlefish, campfire trout, buffalo foie gras burger and truffle fries. 2424 Pico Blvd., (310) 581-9888. $18 to $36.

LA BOTTE RISTORANTE: Regional Italian fare from the pair behind Venice’s Piccolo. Specialties: raw artichoke and celery salad, ravioli with duck and cabbage, wild boar sausage. 620 Santa Monica Blvd., (310) 576-3072. $24 to $38.

LA SERENATA DE GARIBALDI: 1416 4th St., (310) 656-7017. See listing under East Los Angeles. Also in West Los Angeles as La Serenata Gourmet.

MELISSE: Ambitious seasonal French-influenced cuisine from chef Josiah Citrin. Specialties: seared foie gras, cote de boeuf. 1104 Wilshire Blvd., (310) 395-0881. $38 to $44. See page 35 for more.

MICHAEL’S: One of the original bastions of California cuisine, offering lovely summer-night garden dining. Specialties: foie gras torchon, sashimi, Sonoma duck breast. 1147 3rd St., (310) 451-0843. $28 to $42.

OCEAN AND VINE: Inventive dishes with clever wine pairings. Specialties: steamed mussels, grilled Colorado rack of lamb, cheese plate, filo caramelized banana tart. Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel, 1700 Ocean Ave., (310) 576-3180. $17 to $35.

PACIFIC DINING CAR: Opulent old-fashioned steakhouse serving up prime beef and gracious service. Specialties: onion rings, Maine lobster appletini, shrimp cocktail, Colorado rack of lamb. 2700 Wilshire Blvd., (310) 453-4000. $29 to $49.

THE PENTHOUSE: The big lure is the striking scenery. Specialties: steak frites, Kurobuta pork shank with roasted yams and dried cherries, New York strip loin, salmon fillet. Huntley Hotel, 1111 2nd St., (310) 393-8080. $20 to $38.

RUSTIC CANYON: 1119 Wilshire Blvd., (310) 393-7050. $16 to $34. See page 22 for more.

SUSHI ROKU: 1401 Ocean Ave., (310) 458-4771. See listing under Pasadena. Also on 3rd Street in Los Angeles.

VALENTINO RESTAURANT: Piero Selvaggio’s flagship, one of the best Italian restaurants in town. Vin Bar, in the front room, offers quick bites and wines. Specialties: vitello tonnato, risotto al tartufo, sauteed branzino. 3115 W. Pico Blvd., (310) 829-4313. Tasting menu, $65 to $85.

VIOLET: Easygoing California menu. Specialties: baby beets with smoked eel, mac and cheese, whitefish. 3221 Pico Blvd., (310) 453-9113. $3 to $19.

WHIST: Contemporary American French cuisine. Specialties: smoked halibut croquettes, spring pea risotto, black Angus tenderloin, Kobe beef burger. Viceroy Santa Monica hotel, 1819 Ocean Ave., (310) 260-7511. $29 to $39.

WILSHIRE: American restaurant with organic market fare. Specialties: Yukon Gold potato gnocchi, duck confit salad, braised boneless beef short ribs. 2454 Wilshire Blvd., (310) 586-1707. $26 to $36. See page 51 for more.

South Bay

AVENUE: Seasonal French American cooking. Specialties: Prairie Grove pork shanks, Columbia River sturgeon, osso bucco, foie gras. 1141 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, (310) 802-1973. $24 to $35.

CHEZ MELANGE: Eclectic California menu. Specialties: Southern fried chicken salad, Chez burger, spicy Cajun meatloaf, sushi. Palos Verdes Inn, 1716 S. Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach, (310) 540-1222. $14 to $30.

FARM STAND: Country-style cooking with a Persian touch. Specialties: walnut-pomegranate baked chicken, lamb shank, Nonna Rina’s lasagna. 422 Main St., El Segundo, (310) 640-3276. $7 to $20.

GINA LEE’S BISTRO: California Asian “bistro.” Specialties: wontons, chicken dumplings, bento box, New York steak. 211 Palos Verdes Blvd., Redondo Beach, (310) 375-4462. $11 to $21.

GYU-KAKU: 24631 Crenshaw Blvd., Torrance, (310) 325-1437. See listing under Beverly Hills. Also in West Los Angeles and Pasadena.

LA SOSTA: Italian restaurant and enoteca by the sea. Specialties: salumi and cheeses, large selection of wines, tiramisu. 2700 Manhattan Ave., Hermosa Beach, (310) 318-1556. $30 to $40.

PETROS GREEK CUISINE AND LOUNGE: 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd., No. B110, Manhattan Beach, (310) 545-4100. $22 to $36. See page 16 for more.

Venice

AXE: Minimal Zen-style spot serving healthful, seasonal farmers market-driven cuisine. Specialties: flatbreads and spreads, heirloom lettuce salad, Moroccan vegetable couscous, wild and line-caught fish. 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., (310) 664-9787. $18 to $32.

BEECHWOOD: Sleek restaurant and lounge. Specialties: frites sampler, rib-eye burger, seasonal fish, short-rib sandwich with horseradish aioli. 822 Washington Blvd., (310) 448-8884. $16 to $26.

CHAYA VENICE: California Asian menu, including sushi and sashimi. Specialties: wakame seaweed salad, miso-marinated white sea bass. 110 Navy St., (310) 396-1179. Also in Melrose/Beverly/3rd Street area as Chaya Brasserie. $18 to $33.

DANNY’S VENICE DELI: An eclectic menu that bucks deli stereotypes. Specialties: falafel burger, baked whitefish, Reuben sandwich, challah French toast. 23 Windward Ave., (310) 566-5610. $13 to $25.

HAL’S BAR & GRILL: Warm service, solid California fare and live jazz on Sunday and Monday evenings. Specialties: turkey burger, halibut chop, Caesar salad, warm pear and cranberry bread pudding. 1349 Abbot Kinney Blvd., (310) 396-3105. $18 to $32.

JOE’S: Neighborhood gathering spot with serious Californian, Asian and French cooking. Specialties: poached eggs on house-smoked trout, porcini mushroom ravioli. 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., (310) 399-5811. $23 to $30. See page 51 for more.

LILLY’S FRENCH CAFE AND WINE BAR: About as French a cafe as you can find in Los Angeles. Specialties: steamed mussels, goat cheese and leek tart, chicken with rosemary. 1031 Abbot Kinney Blvd., (310) 314-0004. $15 to $25.

PICCOLO RISTORANTE: Tiny boho spot where chef Alberto Lazzarino offers something more than standard fare. Specialties: grilled calamari with Swiss chard, tortelli with potato and figs. 5 Dudley Ave., (310) 314-3222. $24 to $36.

3 SQUARE CAFE + BAKERY: 1121 Abbot Kinney Blvd., (310) 399-6504. $7 to $18. See page 28 for more.

West Hollywood

BAR MARMONT: Adjacent to the Chateau Marmont, the bar offers a menu of snacks and small plates. Specialties: spicy lamb and pea crepinette with a minty salsa verde, gnocchi, “damn good burger.” 8171 W. Sunset Blvd., (323) 650-0575. $19 to $29.

BASTIDE: 8475 Melrose Place, (323) 651-5950. See page 21 for more.

BIN 8945: 8945 Santa Monica Blvd., (310) 550-8945. $24 to $29. See page 30 for more.

BOA: Grafton on Sunset Hotel, 8462 W. Sunset Blvd., (323) 650-8383. See listing under Santa Monica.

DAN TANA’S: Clubby, old-school Italian restaurant. Specialties: mozzarella marinara, Caesar salad, veal scaloppine or chicken Marsala, New York steak. 9071 Santa Monica Blvd., (310) 275-9444. $20 to $56.

DOMINICK’S: Italian cuisine at this old Rat Pack hangout. Specialties: rice balls, ricotta gnocchi, grilled artichoke, fettuccine carbonara, grilled hanger steak. 8715 Beverly Blvd., (310) 652-2335. $13 to $25.

DOUG ARANGO’S: California restaurant with northern Italian influences and an excellent wine list. Specialties: pizzas, fresh sardine bruschetta, gnocchi with artichokes and rock shrimp, rack of lamb. 8826 Melrose Ave., (310) 278-3684. $16 to $34.

IL SOLE RISTORANTE: Cozy Italian spot on the Sunset Strip. Specialties: burrata with tomatoes, penne all’ arrabbiata, spinach and ricotta ravioli. 8741 Sunset Blvd., (310) 657-1182. $24 to $48.

KETCHUP: Sunset Millennium, 8590 W. Sunset Blvd., (310) 289-8590. $18 to $49. See page 25 for more.

KOI: Trendy Japanese with a fireside lounge scene. Specialties: crispy rice with spicy tuna, black cod bronzed with miso, pan-roasted duck. 730 N. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 659-9449. $14 to $46.

LUCQUES: The Sunday suppers have turned Suzanne Goin’s inviting French California restaurant into an L.A. institution. Specialties: grilled market fish, stuffed saddle of lamb, braised beef short ribs. 8474 Melrose Ave., (323) 655-6277. $24 to $44.

NISHIMURA: Stylish sushi restaurant. Specialties: jumbo clams, Kumamoto oysters, scallops, thin-sliced octopus, grilled freshwater eel, sushi, sashimi. 8684 Melrose Ave., (310) 659-4770. $20 to $40.

THE PALM RESTAURANT: Venerable, clubby steakhouse with a New York vibe. Specialties: jumbo Nova Scotia lobster, Alaskan king crab legs, prime skirt steak. 9001 Santa Monica Blvd., (310) 550-8811. $35 to $75.

REPUBLIC: Upscale steakhouse menu in a glamorous setting. Specialties: lobster corn dogs, “Ritz”-crusted crab cakes, dry-aged New York strip, smoked mac and cheese, barbecued pork osso buco. 650 N. La Cienega Blvd., (310) 360-7070. $23 to $44.

THE TOWER BAR: Retro hotel lounge and restaurant with mesmerizing views. Specialties: grilled pizza, ahi tuna tartare, potato blini, gnocchi, risotto, grilled chicken paillard, steak frites, ice cream sundae. 8358 W. Sunset Blvd., (323) 848-6677. $23 to $45.

ZEKE’S SMOKEHOUSE: 7100 Santa Monica Blvd., (323) 850-9353. See listing under Glendale/ Eagle Rock.

West Los Angeles

THE APPLE PAN: Burgers and pies served to a loyal clientele since 1947. Specialties: steak burger, hickory burger, egg salad sandwich, tuna sandwich, apple pie, banana cream pie. 10801 W. Pico Blvd., (310) 475-3585. $4 to $6.

CHAN DARA: Casual Thai eatery. Specialties: satay, Saigon spring rolls, tamarind sauce sprinkled with chopped peanuts and minced onion. 11940 W. Pico Blvd., (310) 479-4461. Also at 310 N. Larchmont Blvd., (323) 467-1052. $10 to $25.

CJ’S CAFE: Soul food and Mexican. Specialties: fajita-style chicken, short ribs, spicy roast pork, carrot juice. 5501 W. Pico Blvd., (323) 936-3216. $5 to $9.

THE COLONY CAFE & PAPA’S PORCH: Cheerful burger joint. Specialties: veggie sandwich, chili cheese dog, chopped salad, roast beef sandwich. 10937 W. Pico Blvd., (310) 470-8909. $6 to $9.

GUELAGUETZA: Modest cafe offering moles made from ingredients brought from Mexico each week. Specialties: black mole with chicken, banana leaf tamale, molcajete. 11127 Palms Blvd., (310) 837-1153. $8 to $15.

GYU-KAKU: 10925 W. Pico Blvd., (310) 234-8641. See listing under Beverly Hills. Also in Pasadena and the South Bay.

IL GRANO: 11359 Santa Monica Blvd., (310) 477-7886. $23 to $35. See page 16 for more.

IL MORO: A snazzy makeover gives this old favorite a sleek, modern Milan feel. Specialties: cheese plate, homemade pastas, lasagna Bolognese, risotto. 11400 W. Olympic Blvd., (310) 575-3530. $20 to $35.

LA SERENATA GOURMET: Casual Mexican cafe. Specialties: fish tacos, mushroom and poblano pepper quesadillas, shrimp gorditas, shrimp with molcajete sauce. 10924 W. Pico Blvd., (310) 441-9667. See listing under East Los Angeles as La Serenata de Garibaldi. Also in Santa Monica. $13 to $25.

LITERATI II: The menu from Campanile alum Chris Kidder features seasonal items with a California Mediterranean sensibility. Specialties: bruschetta with baby octopus, Gem lettuce salad, steak frites. 12081 Wilshire Blvd., (310) 479-3400. $12 to $34.

MORI SUSHI: Chef Morihiro Onodera cultivates his own rice to pair with top-quality raw fish. Specialties: sashimi, sushi, omakase. 11500 W. Pico Blvd., (310) 479-3939. Sushi, $2.50 to $6.50 per piece; omakase, $80 to $150.

NOOK: Casual American bistro. Specialties: mussels with linguica sausage, house lentil vegetable soup, roasted squash and chickpea stew, brownie cup, strawberry-rhubarb crumble. 11628 Santa Monica Blvd., No. 9, (310) 207-5160. $12 to $24.

ORRIS: Casual cafe with a menu of small French Japanese fusion plates. Specialties: seafood spring roll, ravioli, crab cakes, roasted Sonoma duck breast, lamb loin carpaccio, steamed mussels or clams. 2006 Sawtelle Blvd., (310) 268-2212. $5 to $18.

SPARK WOODFIRE GRILL: 9575 W. Pico Blvd., (310) 277-0133. See listing under Orange County. Also in the San Fernando Valley.

TORAFUKU: Japanese pub food. Specialties: iron-cooked rice with cured salmon, steamed Manila clams, charbroiled prime rib roast. 10914 W. Pico Blvd., (310) 470-0014. $7 to $20.

UPSTAIRS 2: Mediterranean tapas restaurant and wine bar. Specialties: cold-smoked blue marlin, cheese plate and charcuterie, baked veal loaf, five pepper-crusted rib-eye, sticky toffee pudding. 2311 Cotner Ave., (310) 231-0316. $6 to $16.

YAKITORIYA: Chefs grill up Japanese skewers behind a small counter at this Tokyo-style neighborhood dive. 11301 Olympic Blvd., No. 101, (310) 479-5400. Skewers, $2.50 to $4.50 each.

Westwood

DANUBE: The city’s only Bulgarian restaurant is a tiny, tidy space offering a wonderful mix of national and regional dishes. Specialties: vita banitsa, fried zucchini with yogurt-garlic dip, stuffed bell peppers, pork tenderloin rolls, lamb kebab. 1303 Westwood Blvd., (310) 473-2414. $9 to $20.

KATE MANTILINI: 1139 Glendon Ave., (310) 824-1818. Also in the San Fernando Valley. See listing under Beverly Hills.

KOUTOUBIA: Plush interior, gracious service and confident Moroccan cooking. Specialties: flaky goat cheese turnovers, couscous royal, tagine d’agneau m’rouzia, lamb with honey. 2116 Westwood Blvd., (310) 475-0729. $15.50 to $21.50.

MATTEO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT: Italian cooking from chef Don Dickman. Specialties: affettati misti (mixed cured meats), asparagus Milanese, pan-roasted Maine mussels, stuffed veal chop. 2321 Westwood Blvd., (310) 475-4521. $21 to $38.

NINETHIRTY: Straightforward California cooking and a trendy bar scene. Specialties: pan-roasted hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, short ribs, lamb chop with goat cheese gnocchi. W Hotel, 930 Hilgard Ave., (310) 443-8211. $28 to $38.

THE RESTAURANT AT THE HOTEL BEL-AIR: Haute hotel fare in a romantic environment. Specialties: Bel-Air eggs Benedict, Mediterranean fish soup. 701 Stone Canyon Road, Bel-Air, (310) 472-5234. $26 to $48.

SUNNIN LEBANESE CAFE: Popular spot for Lebanese standards. Specialties: kibbeh, hummus, chicken kebab, baba ghanouj, falafel, baklava. 1779 Westwood Blvd., (310) 477- 2358. $7 to $13.

Orange County

ANTONELLO RISTORANTE: Italian spot where Orange County’s power plays happen. Specialties: fresh textured sauces, veal, seafood, risotto, pastas, filet mignon, rib-eye, lamb chops. South Coast Plaza Village, 3800 S. Plaza Drive, Santa Ana, (714) 751-7153. $18 to $39.

THE BEACHCOMBER AT CRYSTAL COVE: In the middle of the glitziest strip of real estate in Southern California. Specialties: coffee drinks, beignets, corned beef hash and eggs, coconut-macadamia nut pancakes, boysenberry pie. 15 Crystal Cove, Newport Coast, (949) 376-6900. $19 to $30.

BLUEFIN: Contemporary Japanese restaurant and sushi bar. Specialties: fresh Kumamoto oysters, scallop and uni ravioli, king crab tempura, Chilean sea bass with seared foie gras. Crystal Cove Promenade, 7952 E. Coast Highway, Newport Coast, (949) 715-7373. $25 to $32.

THE BUNGALOW: High-quality steakhouse and seafood. Specialties: crab cakes, rib-eye, porterhouse, filet mignon, sea bass. 2441 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar, (949) 673-6585. $23 to $40.

CAPRICCIO ITALIANO: Big Italian flavors and a fine daily selection of seafood. Specialties: calamari Siciliani, linguine, salmone reale capriccioso, pizzas. 25380 Marguerite Parkway, Mission Viejo, (949) 855-6866. $12 to $30.

CHIMAYO AT THE BEACH: At the base of the Huntington Beach Pier and a menu of seafood and steaks. Specialties: ahi rolls, crispy chicken breast, mango martini. 315 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach, (714) 374-7273. $13 to $43.

CHRISTAKIS: Family-run eatery for authentic, home-style Greek cooking. Specialties: rack of lamb, galaktoboureko. 13011 Newport Ave., Tustin, (714) 731-1179. $15 to $25.

DA LAT BISTRO: Vietnamese cuisine with a tropical vibe. Specialties: spring rolls, whole-grilled catfish, clam butter stew. 16525 Brookhurst St., Fountain Valley, (714) 839-8338. $6 to $20.

EL CHOLO CANTINA: 5465 Alton Parkway, Irvine, (949) 451-0044. See listing under Koreatown. Also in Santa Monica and Pasadena.

FIVE CROWNS: English Tudor country inn serving Continental fare. Specialties: “Pride of the Crowns” salad, prime rib. 3801 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar, (949) 760-0331. $25 to $40.

LEATHERBY’S CAFE ROUGE: Smart, modern cooking in a chic, contemporary space. Specialties: Dungeness crab salad, Arctic char, Colorado lamb, striped bass, prime New York steak. Orange County Performing Arts Center, 615 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, (714) 429-7640. $26 to $38.

MARCHE MODERNE: 3333 Bristol St., No. 3001, Costa Mesa, (714) 434-7900. $24 to $39. See page 27 for more.

MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB FISH HOUSE: Crowded seafood spot. Specialties: shrimp cocktail, oysters on the half shell, braised red snapper, king salmon. Crystal Cove Promenade, 8112 E. Coast Highway, Newport Beach, (949) 376-6990. $22 to $42.

ONO ONO HAWAIIAN BARBECUE: Tropical favorites amid a sprightly decor. Specialties: pancake sampler, poke chips, kalua pork quesadilla. 17582 E. 17th St., Tustin, (714) 505-0750. $7 to $9.

QUAN HY CENTRAL VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT: Vietnamese cuisine beautifully presented. Specialti