Jonathan Gold
Tesar vs. Brenner, Jonathan Gold weighs in
Tesar vs. Brenner, Jonathan Gold weighs in

The food world has been chatting today about Leslie Brenner’s review of the Dallas steakhouse Knife, or rather the reaction to the review by its chef, John Tesar, probably best known in Los Angeles for his performance on "Top Chef" season 10. The review in the Dallas Morning News was actually fairly mild for Brenner, who is still remembered around here for her merciless evisceration of Gladstone’s and Giorgio Baldi when she sat in as the restaurant critic during her tenure as food editor at The Times. And her descriptions of some of the food at Knife – patties of seared, shredded beef tongue with arugula and heirloom tomatoes; crisp pig's head with...