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Jonathan Gold
At Porridge and Puffs, spoonfuls of devotion in every bowl
At Porridge and Puffs, spoonfuls of devotion in every bowl

We all have particular ideas of what a porridge restaurant might look like, whether a Hong Kong-style congee shop like Delicious Corner in Monterey Park or a Taiwanese porridge hall like Lu's Garden in San Gabriel, Atlacatl and its list of Salvadoran atoles, the Koreatown pumpkin-porridge specialist Bon Juk or Veronica's Kitchen in Inglewood, with its Nigerian fufu menu. My idea of a good Sunday morning is a copy of The Times and a bowl of the chicken jok at Siam Sunset in Thai Town. It used to be the steel-cut oatmeal with maple syrup bourbon pecans at Square One in Hollywood. I can imagine restaurants built around South Indian upma, South African mealie pap or even Tibetan...

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