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Jonathan Gold
Chefs: Hold the egg, please; not every dish needs one on top
Chefs: Hold the egg, please; not every dish needs one on top

Not that anyone's counting, but we may be in our sixth or seventh year of the Egg on Everything fad in Los Angeles restaurants, and, unlike kale, bacon or hamachi crudo, it shows no signs of going away — not with the lines at Egg Slut approaching the length of a city block at the Grand Central Market on a Sunday morning. A well-poached egg, made ridiculously easy by even the most rudimentary immersion circulator, is by far the cheapest luxury a chef can bestow upon his or her customers. It is the ingredient that diner cooks and Michelin-starred chefs share. A yolk, pretty and bright, looks good on the plate. So Egg Slut I actually understand. People like eggs, and it is an...

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