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Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way makes a magical coastal adventure by car
Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way makes a magical coastal adventure by car

The winding roller-coaster route along Ireland's raggedy-edged west coast has a proper new name: the Wild Atlantic Way, an ideal drive for fall. Meandering 1,600 miles from the Inishowen Peninsula near Derry in the north to Kinsale, in the south, it skirts storm-lashed cliffs, stalwart ruins, hidden beaches, grand estates, tiny villages and dozens of islands. I explored the WAW's southwestern corner, kicking off in the gourmet hub of Kinsale, which was bustling with its popular arts festival known for its pop-up exhibits. My destination was Castletownbere, toward the northwest. Though it's just a two-hour drive on the main road, I took a week along the scenic, zigzag...

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