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Father's Office
Jonathan Gold | L.A. restaurant review: Orsa & Winston is Centeno's rightful place
Jonathan Gold | L.A. restaurant review: Orsa & Winston is Centeno's rightful place

Some people credit Sang Yoon and his Father's Office, others perhaps Ludovic Lefebvre's first pop-ups or Roy Choi's Korean tacos, but Josef Centeno may be the prime mover behind what we've come to think of as modern Los Angeles cooking; the small plates, multicultural influences, modest prices and exquisitely sourced produce that have once again nudged the city into the front ranks of world cuisine. Centeno was chef de cuisine at David Kinch's Manresa, the influential Northern California restaurant known for its intimate relationship with its garden, and first became known to Los Angeles diners when he became the chef of the tapas-driven Spanish restaurant Meson G....

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