David Myers

Jonathan Gold's 101 Best Restaurants: 50-26

Jonathan Gold's 101 Best Restaurants: 50-26

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(Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times) 50 Tar & Roses

"Tar and roses" is the standard wine-geek description of the scent of Barolo wine. Tar & Roses, on the other hand, smells a lot like the smoldering oak that Andrew Kirschner passes most of his food through, onto or around in what is probably the purest distillation of the grill-centered small-plates fixation. Been a while since you've encountered popcorn with bacon, roasted marrowbones with...

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