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Jai Alai

Charm of Espelette, France, puts stop sign on road trip

Charm of Espelette, France, puts stop sign on road trip

I was going to Biarritz. But then Kimberley, an old friend who spends summers in France, suggests I come a few days early and join her on a road trip to nearby St.-Jean-de-Luz. She will pick me up in a rental car at the BAB airport (Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne) and we'll scoot down the Atlantic coast.

Perfect.

Our rental is the most emblematic of all French cars, a Citroën 2CV, at least 50 years old and originally built to help get French farmers and their donkeys off the roads after World War II. The French call it a deux chevaux because, with its two-cylinder engine, it moseys along at a top speed of about 30 mph, about the same as a galloping horse.

As I...

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