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When in Rome


From LAX to Rome, connecting service (change of plane) is available on KLM, Lufthansa, Delta, British Airways, Air France, Swiss, US Airways and Continental. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $568.

Leonardo da Vinci International Airport (Fiumicino) is about 20 miles southwest of Rome. A taxi to the city center is $35-$45. There is direct train service between the airport and Termini train station in central Rome; the one-way trip takes about 30 minutes and costs $10.


To call numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 39 (country code for Italy), 06 (city code for Rome) and the local number.


Grand Hotel Plaza, 126 Via del Corso; 69-92-1111, fax 69-941-575,, was one of Fellini's favorite haunts, old-fashioned and operatic. It is near the Spanish Steps, Piazza del Popolo and Via dei Condotti. Doubles start at about $550.

Hotel Art, 56 Via Margutta; 328-711, fax 360-03-995,, is a small and chic new hotel on the street where Fellini lived. Doubles start at about $320 with breakfast.

Hotel Manfredi, 61 Via Margutta; 320-7676, fax 320-7736, , is a nicely kept and well-equipped pensione on Fellini's street. Doubles start at about $200 with breakfast.


Canova, a stylish cafe on Piazza del Popolo, 361-2231, was a regular stopping place for the director, along with its virtual twin, Rosati, 322-5859, across the piazza.

Al Moro, 13 Vicolo delle Bollette, 678-3495, was a favorite of the director. This small trattoria near the Trevi Fountain is known for its special version of spaghetti alla carbonara; two-course dinner with dessert and wine about $60 per person.

Osteria della Frezza, 17 Via della Frezza, 322-6273, is an attractive, rambling restaurant near Via del Corso with an excellent wine list and tasting-size portions of such delectables as fried zucchini, salami and cheese on the menu; dinner with wine about $40 per person.

Osteria Margutta, 82 Via Margutta, 323-1025, has tables on the sidewalk and is a good place to watch activity on Fellini's street; one-plate lunch with wine and espresso $20-$30 per person.

La Frusta, 47 Piazza della Repubblica, 489-381, a fancy restaurant in the chic Boscolo Hotel Exedra near Termini train station, decorated with gorgeous black-and-white stills from "8 1/2," including Mastroianni with his women and whip (frusta). The ground-floor bar has Roman paparazzi shots and is a pleasing place for a $10 drink.


Romacord Fellini, a celebration marking the 10-year anniversary of the director's death, runs through the end of the year; contact the Rome tourism promotion agency (below) for a schedule of events. "Fellini's Rome," the exhibition at the Vittoriano that was its centerpiece, closed Nov. 3 but will move to the Hôtel de Ville in Paris in late January.

The Guggenheim Museum in New York, 1071 Fifth Ave., (212) 423-3500, is observing the anniversary of the director's death with a Fellini film retrospective and special exhibition of Fellini's drawings through Jan. 14.

Rome's International Museum of Film and Entertainment, 101 Via Portuense, 370-0266, is a small, serendipitous place in Trastevere with Fellini memorabilia and exhibits chronicling the full history of Italian moviemaking; open at 5 p.m. Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, guided visits in English by appointment.


Tourist Promotion Agency of Rome, 11 Via Parigi; 360-04-399,

Italian Government Tourist Board, 12400 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 550, Los Angeles, CA 90025; (310) 820-1898, fax (310) 820-6357,

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