When in Rome

GETTING THERE:

From LAX to Rome, connecting service (change of plane) is available on KLM, Lufthansa, Delta, British Airways, Air France, Swiss, US Airways and Continental. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $568.

Leonardo da Vinci International Airport (Fiumicino) is about 20 miles southwest of Rome. A taxi to the city center is $35-$45. There is direct train service between the airport and Termini train station in central Rome; the one-way trip takes about 30 minutes and costs $10.

TELEPHONES:

To call numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 39 (country code for Italy), 06 (city code for Rome) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Grand Hotel Plaza, 126 Via del Corso; 69-92-1111, fax 69-941-575, https://www.hotelplazarome.com, was one of Fellini’s favorite haunts, old-fashioned and operatic. It is near the Spanish Steps, Piazza del Popolo and Via dei Condotti. Doubles start at about $550.

Hotel Art, 56 Via Margutta; 328-711, fax 360-03-995, https://www.slh.com/hotelart, is a small and chic new hotel on the street where Fellini lived. Doubles start at about $320 with breakfast.

Hotel Manfredi, 61 Via Margutta; 320-7676, fax 320-7736, https://www.hmanfredi.com , is a nicely kept and well-equipped pensione on Fellini’s street. Doubles start at about $200 with breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT:

Canova, a stylish cafe on Piazza del Popolo, 361-2231, was a regular stopping place for the director, along with its virtual twin, Rosati, 322-5859, across the piazza.

Al Moro, 13 Vicolo delle Bollette, 678-3495, was a favorite of the director. This small trattoria near the Trevi Fountain is known for its special version of spaghetti alla carbonara; two-course dinner with dessert and wine about $60 per person.

Osteria della Frezza, 17 Via della Frezza, 322-6273, is an attractive, rambling restaurant near Via del Corso with an excellent wine list and tasting-size portions of such delectables as fried zucchini, salami and cheese on the menu; dinner with wine about $40 per person.

Osteria Margutta, 82 Via Margutta, 323-1025, has tables on the sidewalk and is a good place to watch activity on Fellini’s street; one-plate lunch with wine and espresso $20-$30 per person.

La Frusta, 47 Piazza della Repubblica, 489-381, a fancy restaurant in the chic Boscolo Hotel Exedra near Termini train station, decorated with gorgeous black-and-white stills from “8 1/2,” including Mastroianni with his women and whip (frusta). The ground-floor bar has Roman paparazzi shots and is a pleasing place for a $10 drink.

FESTIVALS, EXHIBITIONS AND MUSEUMS:

Romacord Fellini, a celebration marking the 10-year anniversary of the director’s death, runs through the end of the year; contact the Rome tourism promotion agency (below) for a schedule of events. “Fellini’s Rome,” the exhibition at the Vittoriano that was its centerpiece, closed Nov. 3 but will move to the Hôtel de Ville in Paris in late January.

The Guggenheim Museum in New York, 1071 Fifth Ave., (212) 423-3500, is observing the anniversary of the director’s death with a Fellini film retrospective and special exhibition of Fellini’s drawings through Jan. 14.

Rome’s International Museum of Film and Entertainment, 101 Via Portuense, 370-0266, is a small, serendipitous place in Trastevere with Fellini memorabilia and exhibits chronicling the full history of Italian moviemaking; open at 5 p.m. Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, guided visits in English by appointment.

TO LEARN MORE:

Tourist Promotion Agency of Rome, 11 Via Parigi; 360-04-399, https://www.romaturismo.it.

Italian Government Tourist Board, 12400 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 550, Los Angeles, CA 90025; (310) 820-1898, fax (310) 820-6357, https://www.italiantourism.com.