Tough Choices : <i> West Hollywood has so many great restaurants that choosing a place to eat can be very difficult.</i>

Chaya Brasserie, 8741 Alden Drive. (213) 859-8833. Style: Franco-Japanese with Italian accents. Setting: Part bistro, part Japanese teahouse. Recommended dishes: Halibut sashimi; spicy pan-fried lobster; grilled chicken with pommes frites. Cost per person: $20-$45.

Pazzia, 755 N. La Cienega. (213) 657-9271. Style: A fine madness by the man who opened Rex. Setting: Designer gorgeous. Recommended dishes: Pappa al pomodoro ; yellow pepper soup; ravioli with lentils and pine nuts. Cost per person: $25-$40.

Spago, 1114 Horn Ave. (213) 652-4025. Style: House of paparazzi and pizza. Setting: High voltage. Recommended dishes: Breaded oysters with salsa; baby lamb served with artichoke flan; duck sausage pizza. Cost per person: $20-$40.

Talesai, 9043 Sunset Blvd. (213) 275-9724. Style: Tiny tidbits of Thai. Setting: Arty. Recommended dishes: hor mok, shrimp and squid in a sauce of lemon grass, basil, coconut and chile; pad gra-pow, squid sauteed with chile, onion and mint; pleasing garlic, beef or pork sauteed with garlic and black pepper. Cost per person: $15-$30.

Tulipe, 8360 Melrose Ave. (213) 655-7400. Style: Proof that good French food need not cost a lot of money. Setting: Stark with large open kitchen. Recommended dishes: Blue cheese and pear Pithiviers; ravioli of duck and snails in parsley coulis; braised veal shank. Cost per person: $20-$35.