The Wine List

Wine lists should all be this good. Cicada’s is broad enough to offer a variety of styles of wine, it has the expected classics and some lesser-known stars, and it has wines in every price range. Best of all, it’s very reasonably priced.

There are 17 wines under $20, all of which complement the food. The best white wine values on the list are two 1990 Sauvignon Blancs--Murphy Goode and Lakespring, $16 each. The best red wine values may be 1988 Chateau Souverain Cabernet, $15, and 1986 Villa Mt. Eden Cabernet, $20.

There are also lovely light white wines such as 1989 Bianco di Custoza from Cortevecchia, $16, and 1990 Arneis del Roero Malabaila di Canale, $25. In richer whites, try 1989 Baron de LaDoucette Pouilly -Fume, $30; 1988 Chateau St. Jean Belle Terre Chardonnay, $30; or 1989 Flora Springs Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, $40.

Among the lighter reds, 1989 Cotes de Ventoux, $15, and Giacosa’s 1988 Dolcetto, $20, are excellent. A heavier red, one of more than a dozen excellent Italian wines, is the ’86 Chianti Classico from Fattoria di Ama, $40. There are also some great French and California reds, including 1987 Ridge Brandford Mountain Merlot at $25 and 1990 Qupe Syrah, $20.

Big spenders will be pleased to see 1986 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, $160, and 1983 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion, $89.