Pottage Industry

Lentils have always seemed a mystical ingredient to me. Imagine a simple food that a Biblical character--Esau in the Old Testament--craved so much that he traded his birthright for a bowlful. But if lentils were only prepared as a simple pottage (as it’s sometimes referred to in the Bible), it would be a curiosity rather than one of the trendiest ingredients chefs are now using.

The real lure of this ingredient is its adaptability. Lentils have a robust “meaty” taste, especially when prepared in a stew or soup. However, if they’re slightly undercooked and served as a salad, lentils take on a “nutty” sweet taste.

And flavors change according to the type of lentils used. Brown lentils--the kind you’re most likely to find in the supermarket--are the ones with the meaty taste. Green lentils have a lighter, vegetable-like flavor. Red lentils are slightly sweet and delicate. Green and red lentils are most often found in gourmet and ethnic food stores.

Unlike dried beans, which sometimes seem too time-consuming to cook for two, dried lentils cook much more quickly.

In the Middle Eastern-inspired Lentil and Lamb Stew that follows, the flavors of the lamb, carrots, shallots, garlic and lentils blend deliciously.

Round out the entree with a fragrant salad of orange, watercress, mint and shallots.

LENTIL AND LAMB STEW

3/4 pound lamb chunks or cubes

1 heaping tablespoon flour

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 to 5 shallots, peeled and minced

2 carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 clove garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

2 bay leaves

2 cups chicken broth

1/2 cup dry white wine

Scant 3/4 cup brown lentils

Salt, pepper

Pressure Cooker Method:

Dust lamb with flour. Heat olive oil in pressure skillet. Brown lamb on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add shallots, carrots, garlic, thyme, bay leaves and 1 cup chicken broth. Stir to mix. Cover and bring up to full pressure. Cook 10 minutes. Reduce pressure by immediately holding pressure skillet under cold running water or according to manufacturer’s directions.

Add remaining 1 cup broth, wine and lentils to skillet. Cover and bring up to full boil pressure. Cook another 10 minutes. Cool down under cold running water. Using back of spoon, mash shallots into stew. Remove bay leaves. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Note : Pressure skillet is just like pressure cooker but with smaller capacity. It is available in gourmet food stores.

Conventional Method:

Dust lamb with flour. Heat olive oil in heavy bottomed skillet or pan and brown lamb on all sides, about 5 minutes. Add shallots, carrots, garlic, thyme, bay leaves and 1 cup broth. Cover skillet and simmer until lamb is just tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Add remaining 1 cup broth, wine and lentils. Cover and cook over low heat until lentils are tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Check mixture occasionally and add more broth if too dry. Makes 2 servings.

WATERCRESS, ORANGE, SHALLOT AND MINT SALAD

1 medium seedless orange, unpeeled

2 cups watercress leaves, loosely measured

1 heaping tablespoon minced mint leaves

1 medium shallot, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Slice orange across into thin slices over bowl to catch juices. Working over bowl, cut orange into bite-size pieces. Reserve juice.

Place orange pieces in serving bowl. Add watercress, mint and shallot. Add olive oil to orange juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour over salad. Toss gently but well. Makes 2 servings.