THE SENSIBLE HOME : Micro-Filter Vacuums Make a Clean Sweep
QUESTION: My children have allergies that seem worse after I run the vacuum cleaner. I can smell the dust. Do the new micro-filtration allergy vacuum cleaners really help, and do they use more electricity?
ANSWER: New micro-filtration allergy vacuum cleaners do help. I have allergies to dust, mold and cat dander, and I notice an improvement when I vacuum with one in my own home. Micro-filtration vacuum cleaners also clean deeper than ordinary vacuums, particularly in deep pile carpets and furniture.
The air in today’s typical efficient house has become literally a chemical and dust soup. After a typical vacuum cleaner has been used, rooms often have 10 times more airborne dust and allergens than they had before being vacuumed.
Micro-filtration allergy vacuums have extra-powerful motors and special suction designs for deep cleaning. Although the powerful motors use somewhat more electricity, you’ll need to vacuum less often. More dust is picked up, and the micro-filtration and seals keep it from leaking through.
True micro-filtration allergy vacuum cleaners have more than just a better bag. The best ones have allergy bags with up to 14 layers, multistage high efficiency (HEPA)/carbon filters and extra airtight seals to eliminate leaks. Especially with a carbon filter, the dusty “just vacuumed” smell is eliminated.
To compare deep cleaning power of various vacuum cleaners, check the suction (water lift in inches) and the volume of air flow (cubic feet per minute). Advertised “peak horsepower” ratings are often just marketing hype.
The most powerful allergy vacuums have suction of more than 80 inches and air flow of more than 100 cubic feet per minute. Many allergy-safe vacuum cleaners use a canister design with a power nozzle (beater bar and brush) for carpet. There are also several micro-filtration uprights and a wet/dry model.
Several designs of micro-filtration are effective. One design uses double 14-layer cellulose filter bags, a charcoal filter and a final anti-microbial (kills germs, molds, etc.) or HEPA (used in hospital operating rooms) filter. The air blowing out of these vacuums is super-clean.
The internal design affects the motion of the air inside and its cleaning effectiveness. A rapidly spinning (cyclonic) flow of dirty air inside the vacuum helps to separate the dirt particles from the air stream.
Cyclonic flow also forces the dirt and allergen particles to hit the filter bag pores at an angle. This makes it more effective at trapping them inside. Several models have as many as 3,500 tiny air holes in the inner metal canister to use the entire bag surface for micro-filtering.
Write for Update Bulletin No. 820, showing a buyer’s guide of nine micro-filtration allergy vacuum cleaner (canister and upright) manufacturers, cleaning power (water lift and air flow), types of filters, prices and a common allergen size chart. Please include $2 and a business-size self-addressed, stamped envelope; mail to James Dulley, Los Angeles Times, 6906 Royalgreen Drive, Cincinnati, OH 45244.
Removing Old Film From Windows
Q: I have old heat-control permanent window film on my windows, and I want to remove it. What is the easiest way?
A: There are two approaches. First, using a single-edge razor blade or window scraper, scrape the film loose from the top edge. Spray the exposed area with a solution of half ammonia and half water. Slowly work your way diagonally across, peeling it off from top to bottom.
If this doesn’t work, spray the entire film with the ammonia solution. Cover the window with plastic sheeting and let it stay wet for 10 to 12 hours. After this sweating of the film, remove the film as directed above.
A Stirring Idea for a Smooth Caulk Job
Q: I plan to caulk indoors around my old windows. Is there any sure-fire method for smoothing it to get a professional-looking job?
A: One method I use is to put masking tape along the sides of the joint I want to caulk. Lay a heavy caulking bead so there is enough material to withstand thermal expansion. Cut the corners off the end of a paint stirrer, leaving the uncut flat edge the width of the bead you desire. After you lay the caulking, run the paint stirrer along the bead to smooth it. When it’s dry, remove the tape.
Letters and questions to Dulley, a Cincinnati-based engineering consultant, may be sent to James Dulley, Los Angeles Times, 6906 Royalgreen Drive, Cincinnati, OH 45244.
