Pasta on Impulse

When home entertaining is impromptu, quick and easy become the rule. But style is also an issue, and pasta works well for these spontaneous moments.

I have had great success with pasta primavera, a fresh, vibrant mound of fettuccine, broccoli, carrots, cauliflower and onion, all tossed with olive oil, pecorino cheese, fresh basil and garlic. This version of primavera is strategically based on ingredients selected from a salad bar for the ease and variety it offers. For added convenience, the vegetables cook in the same pot as the pasta.

The key here is not to stint on the first course or the wine. Start off the meal with substantial impact and offer a good wine that works throughout the meal.

A simple salad of spicy shrimp remoulade on thinly sliced radicchio is a festive and impressive first course. It’s also the perfect contrast to the pasta primavera. Be sure to buy high-quality shrimp. Adjust the spice level to your preference.

A chilled aromatic, fresh-tasting Alsatian Hugel Gewurztraminer 1993 complements both courses. Serve a crusty peasant loaf and you’re set. For dessert, slice fresh strawberries and sauce them in a mixture of vodka, sugar, lemon juice and peel. Crisp, buttery cookies add a nice touch.

SPICY SHRIMP REMOULADE SALAD (IT’S A SNAP)

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon chopped shallots

1 tablespoon minced chives

1 tablespoon capers

2 tablespoons minced parsley

1 1/2 teaspoons dry mustard

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 cup low-fat mayonnaise

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1/8 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

16 jumbo shrimp, cooked, peeled, deveined, tail on

4 cups thinly sliced radicchio

4 lemon wedges

Puree garlic, shallots, chives, capers, parsley, mustard, sugar, mayonnaise, vinegar and hot sauce in food processor until smooth. (Note: Sauce can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated.)

Toss sauce with shrimp 2 hours before serving and refrigerate.

Arrange radicchio on 4 salad plates. Top each with 4 shrimp. Drizzle with remaining sauce. Garnish each plate with lemon wedge. Serve chilled.

4 servings. Each serving:

157 calories; 257 mg sodium; 43 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0.46 gram fiber.

SALAD BAR PRIMAVERA (IT’S A SNAP and VEGETARIAN)

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/3 cup grated pecorino cheese plus extra for garnish

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Salt

9 ounces fettuccine

4 cups broccoli florets

4 cups cauliflower florets

2 cups sliced red onion

1 cup shredded carrots

Red pepper flakes

The measurements in this dish don’t need to be exact; just eyeball them the best you can. And vary the vegetables according to your taste. The trick is to group vegetables that require the same amount of time to cook. For example, the broccoli and cauliflower go in the pot together while the red onion and carrots are added at the last minute. For an added touch, add 1 1/2 cups spinach leaves; trim the stems and cut the leaves into thin strips. Put them uncooked in the pasta bowl with the cheese, olive oil, lemon juice and garlic.

Put oil, cheese, garlic and lemon juice in large shallow pasta bowl. Set aside.

Bring 6 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add 2 teaspoons salt and fettuccine. Stir and cook until almost al dente and pasta needs to cook about 4 more minutes to be done.

Add broccoli and cauliflower and cook 2 1/2 minutes. Add onions and carrots and return to boil about 1 minute. Immediately drain contents of pot, reserving 1 cup liquid, and transfer pasta and vegetables to pasta dish. Toss well. Add salt and red pepper flakes to taste. If mixture is too dry, add reserved liquid as needed. Serve hot. Pass extra cheese in a separate dish.

4 servings. Each serving without extra cheese:

550 calories; 370 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 70 grams carbohydrates; 19 grams protein; 2.94 grams fiber.

* Ralph Lauren’s “Round Hill” plates from Grieco Home Collection, San Pedro, and Room at the Beach, Malibu.