River Rides

Only minutes after we hoisted anchor here, the beauty of the Shannon River unfolded before us . . . wild swans glided alongside our barge as cows and sheep wandered to the river’s edge to drink. A farmer and his four hunting dogs picked their way along a centuries-old stone wall; a bark acknowledged our presence. The farmer tipped his woolen cap and greeted us, “Aye, this is grand weather we are having, isn’t it?” We nodded, waved and gently moved on. The morning, viewed from the deck of the Shannon Princess deluxe hotel barge, was glorious.

Last September’s barge journey through the center of Ireland had started in Athlone, County Westmeath, where the Shannon Princess had docked in the center of town next to a prominent fortress known as Athlone Castle. Narrow streets dotted with pubs and small shops circled the castle. Across the bridge on the other side of the river was the more modern part of town, with many stores, restaurants and pubs. Over the next week we traveled about 100 miles south on the Shannon, through County Offaly, to our journey’s end in the town of Killaloe, County Clare.

This particular part of the river is narrow, and our barge was impressive enough that tourists operating their small, rented boats videotaped and photographed us. The self-drive boats looked like fun, but I liked the idea of having a captain, crew and chef on board, which was exactly our situation. I had traveled through most of Ireland on four other trips, but this was my first Irish barge experience. We would have all of our meals prepared; our small, functional cabins (with private facilities and shower) cleaned, our whole trip coordinated.

The diesel-powered Shannon Princess also was a novelty in that this was its first year of operation--and my group of 11 barge passengers had the distinction of being on the Princess’ first equestrian charter.

A fellow riding instructor, Susan Sacks, and I had invited former equestrian students and friends, both couples and singles, to accompany us on this barge charter. (The barge offers golf, equestrian and other special-interest charters to interested groups.) Our riding abilities ranged from beginner to advanced. We would have time on the barge interspersed with horseback riding forays through some of Ireland’s most beautiful countryside. (During a nonspecialized charter, passengers would be taken sightseeing instead of riding.)

Before our first ride, though, we had to have lunch, as meals were an on-board event of paramount importance. Prawns in garlic butter, Guinness stew, mashed sweet potatoes, fresh-baked brown bread and farmhouse cheeses were accompanied by a selection of wines. “Don’t tell me you expect me to ride after that feast!” groaned Susan. Somehow we managed to overcome our relaxed state and prepare for our ride.

After docking at Shannonbridge, about 15 leisurely barging miles from Athlone, we boarded the bus for our transfer to Flower Hill Equestrian Holiday Farm a short ride away in Ballinasloe. As we neared, huge horseshoe-shaped signs began announcing our approach to Flower Hill. Anticipation built as we passed sign after sign directing us to the farm. Finally we turned down a long driveway with horses grazing on either side. The manor house appeared, looking like “Gone With the Wind’s” Tara after the war. A man in jeans and riding boots came out of the barn, his red face and massive mane of blond hair making him look more like a Viking than an Irishman. “How’s it going everybody? Any trouble finding the place?” he asked no one in particular.

The Viking, Oliver Walsh, was actually the owner of Flower Hill. Over the next two days Walsh matched beginners-through-advanced-riders with appropriate horses. We rode through fields and streams around his property, then headed down some country roads by an old graveyard. Even on the bridle paths, those horseshoe-signs appeared. Walsh looked back and licked his lips, “Anybody thirsty?”

A pub appeared before us, so we secured our horses in the paddock and united inside for a pint of beer. The windowless building was painted white, with a thatched roof and only the sign, “The Pub.”

“Oliver, why do you have all those signs on the back roads?” asked one of the riders about the ubiquitous horseshoe signs. “Surely cars don’t use that entrance.”

Not missing a beat, Walsh replied, “That’s to help Rosie find her way home if I have too many pints.” Apparently, in Ireland even the horses can read.

With Rosie’s help we made it back and joined the barge down the river at Banagher. The dock was about a mile from town, close enough to reach on foot or by the barge’s bicycles. We explored the shops and market before dinner and returned to the barge to dine with our captain, Rauiri (Gaelic for Rory), and share our day’s experiences with him.

The barge had two decks: The lower deck housed the guest and crew cabins; the upper was basically one big room with a living room area, the dining room and bar. There also was an outside deck area for sunning and enjoying the fresh air, and the smallest of kitchens, which didn’t seem to hinder our chef. Given the size of the food-preparation area, the crew bought all the food locally every day.

Our chef, Olivia Power, a graduate of the Ballymaloe Cooking School in County Cork, must have known we were famished. She had prepared an extravagant meal, starting off with chicken liver pate, followed by wild mushroom soup, monkfish with a mussel and Chardonnay sauce, farmhouse cheeses and autumn pudding. South African wines and after-dinner cordials accompanied the meal, after which Rauiri recommended visiting a local pub to listen to traditional Irish music.

Hough’s Singing Pub was the highlight in Banagher, a very cozy establishment even by Irish standards. Old kegs with pillows are used as bar stools and the walls are covered with pictures of Mike Hough and his Irish draft horses. Everyone, including Hough himself and most of the patrons, sang or played the harmonica, fiddle, piano or Irish flute, with varying degrees of proficiency. Although none of us was brave enough to sing, we did manage to learn a few Irish jigs.

The smell of fresh-baked scones and coffee wafting down to our cabins was the only thing that could have brought us to life after a night at Hough’s.

Later, we joined Walsh--who admitted to staying out late as well--on a half-day ride in the Slieve Aughty Mountains. The Connemara ponies, an Irish breed known for their sturdiness and endurance, and the heavier boned Irish draft horses all picked their way carefully and confidently up the mountain. The views were a wonderful patchwork quilt of green pastures and stone walls. The feeling of camaraderie within the group, with our horses, and with our leader, Walsh, was outstanding, like old friends.

After we said good-bye to Walsh, our driver took us back to the barge, and we floated down the river toward Portumna. As we barged through Lough Derg, a wide part of the river known as “Lake of the Bloody Eye,” some people napped on deck, others read or took pictures while some of us went up on the bridge to enjoy the scenery and serenity that is barging. With some fancy maneuvering, Rauiri was able to squeeze through the narrow Portumna lock, and we docked on the other side. Portumna marked the halfway point of our trip and we had not encountered a single tour bus or anyone who looked like a tourist in any of the towns.

Next morning, we were off in our van to Kinnitty Castle for our horseback ride up the Slieve Bloom Mountains. As we left the castle stables, we headed through a wooded area looking for all the world like I’d always pictured Sherwood Forest. Then the land opened up as we climbed old logging roads past waterfalls over deep, spectacular glens. (In one we spotted a herd of deer.) Next we rode down the other side of the mountain for lunch at Kinnitty Castle. The castle serves as a small hotel and family home, each room filled with magnificent paintings, portraits and artifacts.

We ate in the main dining hall at a very long table set with beautiful Irish linen, fine china and silver, feasting on cream of carrot soup, fresh turkey and ham sandwiches on brown bread, and a little red wine.

After lunch we met the barge, which had moved a few miles south to Terryglass, a burg voted “Tidiest Town” by the Irish Tourist Board in 1996. Just outside the town are ruins of a 6th century monastic settlement that was destroyed in 1164. Terryglass could have been voted the tiniest town as well, but it did have a lovely craft shop.

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The next day’s ride was at Ballyshannon House Stables in Quin, County Clare. The proprietor, John Hassett, welcomed us with shots of port, then took us out for a quiet walk through Dromoland Woods. Afterward he showed us around his stable of racehorses and explained the breeding and training of some of them.

Back on board, the Shannon Princess made its way toward Mountshannon. The river is wider here, and we eased past the small island of Illamore, waving to some trout fishermen before docking among some privately owned boats in the harbor. That night we visited Cois na Abhanna Pub, Gaelic for “side of the river.” Again it seemed like everyone in town came out to sing or play an instrument. And this time we participated, after the locals persuaded us to sing the “Star Spangled Banner.”

Next day we slept in a bit as we made our way from Mountshannon to Killaloe. Rauiri urged us to come to the bridge to view some of his favorite parts of the river, and it was easy to see why they were. Many tributaries feed the river at this junction and we passed Holy Island and Deer Rock, two uninhabited land masses. From a distance we could see the gray rocks and remains of Derry Castle on shore. Every direction one turned, the view was picture-perfect.

We slipped south to the historic town of Killaloe, named after a monastery founded by St. Lua in the 6th century. We made it just in time for the bridge-opening and docked on the west bank of the river, which splits Killaloe in half. Lunch was at Molly’s Pub next to the dock, where we sat outside and enjoyed smoked salmon, Irish stew and a pint of Guinness before the 10-minute ride to the Shannonside Carrowbaun Farm Trekking Center. Our guide there, Don Wood, ambled up and explained that he would be taking us riding up Clare Mountain to an overlook of the town.

After being paired with our mounts, we made a steady and gradual climb, weaving back and forth on the trails past beautiful purple heather. Don was certainly the quietest Irishman and horseman we had met that week, but once he got comfortable with us he was charming and interested in learning about our lives in the United States. Once we reached the top, we rode through a boggy area, then through an opening that afforded a panoramic view of the entire lake area and town. The day was brilliant, with sailboats dotting the river. We even spotted the Shannon Princess.

Back at the barge it was time for the captain’s farewell dinner. We reminisced about the people we had met, the trails we had ridden, the meals we had eaten and the pubs we had frequented. Our chef treated us to yet another spectacular meal, of which I will only mention roast duck glazed with maple syrup and Bailey’s Irish Cream tiramisu for dessert.

As we lingered over coffee, the sounds of Irish music emanated from Molly’s Pub. We looked at each other. Should we?

Well, maybe just for one pint.

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GUIDEBOOK

Irish Ayes for Barging

Getting there: From LAX to Dublin, Delta has connections (through Atlanta). Or take United or American to Chicago O’Hare, connecting to Aer Lingus to Dublin. Fares begin at about $840.

Barging: For the Irish-owned Shannon Princess, contact the U.S. marketer, New Jersey-based Le Boat, at (800) 922-0291 or (800) 992-0291. The barge operates April 20 to Oct. 15. Trips run Sunday to Saturday; round-trip transportation is provided from Dublin. All meals, wine with lunch and dinner, liquor, sightseeing and transfers are included. On the special-interest charters, the golf and riding costs are included.

Rates for seven-day trips are $2,490 per person based on double occupancy. (There are two single cabins, with no single supplement charge.) Rates for equestrian charters are $2,875 per person, golf charters $2,825 per person.

Equestrian centers: Flower Hill Equestrian Holiday Farm; Killimor, Ballinasloe, County Galway; Oliver Walsh, telephone 011-353-905-76112.

Kinnitty Castle; Birr, County Offaly; tel. 011-353-509-37318.

Ballyshannon House; Quin, County Clare; John Hassett, tel. 011-353-65-25645.

Carrowbaun Farm/Shannonside Trekking Centre; Killaloe, County Clare; Don Wood, tel. 011-353-61-376754.

For more information: Irish Tourist Board, 345 Park Ave., 17th floor, New York, NY 10154; tel. (800) 223-6470 or (212) 418-0800, fax (212) 371-9052.