At Water’s Edge in the Heart of Yosemite

Yosemite National Park’s magnificent back country is quite accessible, at least by Sierra standards, with well-marked trails leading to wildflower-festooned alpine meadows and lovely lakes.

Were Lukens Lake not surrounded by Yosemite’s other spectacular landmarks, it would surely be appreciated more. At first glance, it seems to be only a lake bordered by a red fir forest and a lovely meadow. But did I mention the opportunities for picnicking, swimming and trout fishing?

Nearby May Lake, at the geographical center of the park, is also picturesque. The walk to the water is short in distance but long on views: 10,940-foot Cathedral Peak, 9,926-foot Clouds Rest, Half Dome and Mt. Hoffmann, which appears to thrust right out of the lake.

Lukens Lake

Two family-friendly trails lead to Lukens. Keep in mind that the lake gets its fair share of snow, which can linger into late spring and early summer.

If you hike here early in the season, don’t be surprised if you see snow patches along the trail and find the meadow underwater.

Directions to the shorter trail: From the Big Oak Flat Entrance on the west side of the park, follow Big Oak Flat Road to Tioga Road (California 120). Drive 17 miles northeast on Tioga Road to a turnout on the right and park.

The hike: Carefully cross Tioga Road and pick up the signed trail to Lukens Lake. After a mellow half-mile ascent over a pine-forested ridge, the path makes a one-third-mile descent to a meadow on the lake’s south end. The trail bends east and north around the lake.

Directions to the longer trail: Follow the directions above, but after 15 miles on Tioga Road, take the turnoff for White Wolf Campground. The hike starts across from White Wolf Lodge.

Join the signed trail and meander three-quarters of a mile through a lodgepole pine forest. Shortly after crossing the Middle Fork of the Tuolumne River on logs, you will intersect a trail that leads left, to the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River.

Your route is southeast, through mellow, sometimes soggy and mosquito-filled meadows to a junction with Ten Lakes Trail.

Here you fork right, cross the Tuolumne River and climb a quarter of a mile to the lake.

May Lake

The path to May Lake, just east of Lukens, is easy. Experienced hikers can continue farther, making the difficult climb to the top of 10,850-foot Mt. Hoffmann on a sketchy trail that rises 1,500 feet in two miles.

May Lake entices anglers in search of rainbow and brook trout. By the lake is one of Yosemite’s High Sierra Camps, which offer tent cabins and meals. These camps are spaced a day’s hike apart on a loop of about 50 miles around Tuolumne Meadows and are usually reserved well in advance. (A traditional campsite is on the lake’s south shore.)

Directions to the trail head: From the Lukens Lake area, follow Tioga Road a few miles east to the turnoff for May Lake. Drive north 13/4 miles to the parking area at the end of the road.

The hike: The trail passes through a forest of lodgepole pine and red fir that soon thins as the route climbs into rockier terrain. Half a mile out, enjoy the views of Half Dome and Cathedral Peak.

The trail divides at May Lake: High Sierra Camp to the right, the backpacker camp to the left. Walk all the way around the lake if you like.

For more of John McKinney’s hiking tips, visit www.thetrailmaster.com.