2003 Weingut Salomon-Undhof Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen

When temperatures soar, a tannic red Rhone or Barolo isn’t nearly as alluring as a crisp, light white. Austria produces some terrific bone-dry whites. The Rieslings are expensive and highly sought after, but Gruner Veltliner flies under the radar here.

This one from Weingut Salomon-Undhof, a family-run estate near the ancient city of Krems, north of Vienna, is perfect summer drinking. Very crisp, it carries hints of lime and citrus along with a beautiful minerality and the characteristic green apple and white pepper flavors of this indigenous grape.

It makes a good aperitif, but it’s also a tremendously food-friendly wine, wonderful with raw shellfish, grilled or roasted asparagus, seafood pasta or sauteed squid, even a squash-blossom frittata.

At this price, it is definitely case-worthy.

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Quick swirl

Region: Kremstal, Austria

Price: About $10

Style: Crisp and light

Food it goes with: Oysters on the half shell, sauteed squid, grilled or roasted asparagus, seafood pasta, omelets and frittatas

Where you find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Silver Lake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; the Wine House in Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731; Woodland Hills Wine Company in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111

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-- S. Irene Virbila