Thanksgiving

Stephane Splichal makes a mean tomato-garlic-bacon pasta sauce and rolls out his own pizza dough. At 11 years old, he already has developed a sophisticated palate--not so surprising, considering he’s the son of award-winning chef Joachim Splichal. “Dad usually does the hard stuff,” Stephane says. Adds his fraternal twin Nicolas: “We do the chopping.”

“They’re my little sous-chefs,” says Splichal, proudly glancing at his sons sitting on the back staircase of the Monterey-style San Marino home they share with wife and mother Christine. All are awaiting the pre-Thanksgiving feast and privately tasting two desserts fresh from the oven.

Stephane samples the turkey-shaped brownie while Nicolas, seated two steps below, savors the white chocolate ganache filling in the maple leaf-shaped cranberry-orange cookies. Nicolas carefully dips the powder sugar-coated cookie into his milk--remnants of the last bite still visible above his lip--and pronounces it good.

Their father, the dynamic founder of the Patina Restaurant Group, oversees a culinary empire of 60 restaurants and cafes across the country, including its flagship, the elegant Patina restaurant at Disney Concert Hall. Christine, co-founder of the Patina Group, directs and co-owns the Kinara Spa and boutique in West Hollywood and sits on the boards of a number of charitable and arts organizations around town.

But on the weekends, the busy couple are just a regular mom and dad, taking their kids to soccer and tennis matches, coaching them on upcoming games and offering hugs of encouragement. And when they entertain they always include their children.

“Our get-togethers are spontaneous and casual with simple, healthy food,” says Christine, who grew up around her parents’ patisserie in Biarritz, France. “Joachim goes to the local farmers market and buys whatever is seasonal and fresh, then gets on the phone and invites our neighbors and their children.”

“We want the kids to be a part of the conversation, to express their opinions and tell their stories,” Joachim says. “It wouldn’t be a party without them.”

Mexican American graphic designer and longtime friend Agustin Garza, a frequent guest with his Cuban-born wife, Maria, and their 11-year-old daughter, Clara, says dinners at the Splichals over the years have taught him how to cook. “Everyone’s in the kitchen helping. It’s like a cooking class for us and the kids. We all love it.”

Today, the Splichals’ massive antique trestle table sits under a Brazilian pepper tree and is set for 14--eight adults and six children. The chef is orchestrating one of the toughest American meals--Thanksgiving dinner--and has decided to grill a turkey. “This is California, after all--you can barbecue and eat outdoors all year-round,” says Splichal, who was born in the small mountain village of Spaichingen, Germany. “I could never do this in Germany--it’s freezing in November.”

Deboned and butterflied, the turkey marinated overnight in a bath of olive oil, oranges, rosemary, thyme, black peppercorns and smoked paprika. If the idea of butterflying a large turkey is too daunting, Splichal says, ask your butcher to do it for you. “He can also just cut it into four pieces and remove the bones from the breast to make it more manageable to turn,” he says, flipping the 14-pound turkey with ease. “Californians are so used to barbecuing this will be easy.”

The bird becomes a deep golden brown and exudes a mouth-watering aroma as it cooks. Hailed as one of the nation’s legendary chefs by Bon Appetit magazine and known for his beautiful food presentations, Splichal suggests a duo of soups to start the dinner. He carefully ladles the celery root soup inside a 11/2-inch pastry ring set in the center of the soup bowl, then adds squash soup to the outside of the ring and garnishes the top with fried celery greens. Once the ring is removed, the ivory- and pale pumpkin-colored soups resemble an edible work of art. “It’s really good,” says Stephane after sampling his dad’s soup.

Instead of the usual turkey stuffing, Splichal suggests cipollini (small, flat, pale onions) stuffed with broccolini sauteed in roasted hazelnut butter, as well as braised yams with smoked apple-wood bacon and Italian parsley. As a seasonal third course, he prepares fresh winter greens combined with sweet and sour crabapples, crumbled blue cheese and Marcona almonds. But if you’re one of those people who think Thanksgiving isn’t Thanksgiving without stuffing, Splichal says you can get the turkey bones from your butcher and combine them with white wine or water, using the juices to create a turkey-flavored dressing.

Although the Splichals usually spend Thanksgiving with friends, last year found the close-knit family of four at their new home in Deer Valley, Utah, and dining out at a local restaurant. “It’s a bit much to make a huge turkey with all the trimmings for just four people” Splichal says. And just how was the turkey dinner at the restaurant?

“Pretty good,” says budding gourmet Stephane, and Nicolas agrees. “But not as good as my dad’s.”

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Menu

starters

Roulade of Ahi Tuna

Kabocha Squash

and Celery Root Soup

main course + salad

Grilled Organic Turkey

Winter Greens With Crabapples

desserts

Pumpkin Brandy Creme Brulee

Turkey-Shaped Brownies

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Thanksgiving

Roulade of Ahi Tuna Makes

24 hors d’oeuvres

12 ounces sushi-quality ahi tuna, seasoned

2 plum tomatoes

1 avocado, peeled and sliced paper-thin

Blanch, peel and cut the tomatoes into quarters. Season with salt, pepper and a little olive oil. Place on a baking rack in a 175-degree oven. Cook until they are slightly dry. Cool, remove seeds and slice thinly.

soya onions

1 red onion

1/2 cup low-sodium soy sauce 1/2 cup water

1 teaspoon chopped ginger

Peel and slice the onion 1/8-inch thick. Soak in cold water for 10 minutes and drain. Place in a saucepan with the soy sauce, water and ginger. Bring to a boil and cook until the liquid is almost evaporated. Let cool, then refrigerate. (Will keep up to one week.)

ponzu vinaigrette

1/4 cup grape-seed oil

1/2 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce

Juice of one lime

1 teaspoon sesame oil

11/2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar

1/2 teaspoon chopped garlic

1/2 teaspoon chopped ginger

2 shallots, minced

Whisk together the ingredients and reserve.

To prepare the roulade: Place a sheet of plastic wrap, about 16 inches long, on the work surface. Cut the tuna into 1/4-inch slices and lay on the bottom one-third of the plastic. Top with the soya onions, avocado slices and tomatoes. Using the plastic wrap like a sushi mat, roll up the tuna into one long tube, tightly twisting the ends. Chill in the refrigerator for 20 minutes, and then cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices. To serve, place each slice in the bowl of a tablespoon and drizzle with the vinaigrette.

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Duo of Kabocha Squash and Celery Root Soup

Serves 12

kabocha squash soup

4 pounds kabocha squash

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 cups chopped onion

2 ounces prosciutto

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1 cup thinly sliced carrots

4 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1/2 cup cream

11/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

To prepare: Cut the squash in half and scoop out the seeds. Peel the squash and cut it into 1-inch pieces. In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, prosciutto and curry powder and cook slowly until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the carrots and cook for 2 minutes, remove the prosciutto, and then add the squash and chicken stock. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15 to 20 minutes until the vegetables are tender. Remove from the heat and puree in a blender until smooth. Return to the heat, add the cream and adjust the seasonings. If the soup is too thick, add more stock as needed.

celery root soup

3 tablespoons butter

1 cup chopped onion

3 pounds celery root, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 cup chopped leeks

1 cup chopped celery, plus

1/2 cup celery leaves reserved

1 small branch fresh thyme

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2/3 cup dry vermouth

7 cups chicken or

vegetable stock

1 cup cream

11/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

To prepare: Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and cook 5 minutes until softened. Add the celery root, leeks, celery and thyme, season with salt and pepper, cover and cook until tender, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes. Add the garlic and cayenne pepper and stir 1 minute. Add the vermouth and boil until most of the liquid evaporates, about 8 minutes. Add the stock, bring to a simmer, and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes. Puree the soup in a blender in batches until smooth. Return to the saucepan, add the cream and simmer until thickened to the desired consistency.

To serve: Heat 2 cups of vegetable oil to 375 degrees and fry 1/2 cup celery leaves until crisp, about 10 seconds. Remove and dry on paper towels. Place a stainless-steel pastry ring in the center of a bowl and ladle the celery root soup inside the ring. Ladle the squash soup around the outside of the ring, to the same level as the celery root soup. Remove the ring. Garnish with the fried celery leaves on top of the celery soup.

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Fresh Winter Greens and Crabapple Salad

Serves 12

3 cups sugar

1 cup plus 4 tablespoons Champagne vinegar, divided

13 crabapples

1 cup Marcona almonds

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt and black pepper

11/2 pounds radicchio lettuce leaves, torn

11/2 pounds red Belgian endive, leaves separated

11/2 pounds baby red oak leaf lettuce

12 ounces Cabrales blue cheese, crumbled

Make a simple syrup by mixing the sugar with equal parts water and 1/2 cup Champagne vinegar. Bring it to a simmer and remove from the heat. Pour over 12 of the crabapples to cover, top with a buttered piece of parchment paper, and gently poach in a 300-degree oven until the apples are cooked through, about 20 minutes. Remove the apples from the braising liquid, let cool, and cut in half. Toss the almonds in a touch of olive oil, place in a single layer on a baking sheet and toast in a 350-degree oven until golden brown, about 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt to taste. Make a vinaigrette using the remaining vinegar, lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper. Grate the remaining apple and add to the dressing.

To serve: Toss the lettuces with some of the dressing. Arrange on salad plates along with the crabapples. Sprinkle with the blue cheese and Marcona almonds.

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Grilled Organic Turkey

Serves 12

1 organic turkey, about 14 pounds

4 oranges, cut into quarters

1 head of garlic, halved

4 sprigs fresh rosemary

4 sprigs fresh thyme

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

2 cups olive oil

To prepare the turkey: Place the turkey breast side down. Using poultry shears and starting at the neck, make a lengthwise cut down one side of the backbone to the tail. Make a lengthwise cut down the other side of the backbone. Remove and discard the backbone. Open the turkey like a book, skin side down. Using a paring knife, cut along each side of the breastbone and remove. Make a 2-inch slit in the rear portion of each side of the turkey. Reach under the bird, and pull the end of the drumstick through this slit. Repeat on the other side. Cut off the wing tips.

To make the marinade: Place the oranges, garlic, rosemary, thyme, peppercorns, smoked paprika and olive oil in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Place the turkey on a large platter and pour the marinade over it, cover with plastic wrap and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.

Remove the turkey from the marinade and cut in half. On a medium-hot grill, grill the turkey skin-side down for 15 to 20 minutes before turning it over to complete the grilling. Continue grilling, with the skin side up, until the juices run clear and the internal temperature of the thigh is 180 degrees, about 1 hour total. Set aside, cover with foil and let rest about 10 minutes before carving.

Chef’s note: If butterflying the turkey is a challenge, have a butcher cut the turkey into four pieces and remove the bones from the breast.

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Pumpkin Brandy Creme Brulee

Serves 12

41/2 cups heavy cream

11/2 cups whole milk

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger

1/8 teaspoon cloves

1/2 cup brandy

12 egg yolks

11/2 cups sugar

3/4 cup canned pumpkin puree

12 tablespoons raw sugar (for top of each brulee)

Candied pecans and vanilla chantilly garnishes, optional

Heat the oven to 300 degrees. In a medium saucepan, bring the cream, milk, cinnamon, ginger and cloves to a gentle boil, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat, slowly whisk in the brandy and set aside to cool slightly. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the granulated sugar. Whisking constantly, gradually pour in the hot cream mixture. Whisk in the pumpkin puree. Pour the mixture into 12 6-ounce ramekins and arrange in a hot water bath. Bake until just before set, with a little “jelly jiggle” in the center, about 35 to 45 minutes. The custard will become firmer as it cools. Remove from the water bath, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 2 hours.

When ready to serve, uncover the brulee, sprinkle with raw sugar and brown with a kitchen torch until nicely caramelized and crisp on top. (If you don’t have a torch, place the ramekins on a baking sheet and broil until the sugar is melted and well browned.)

Candied Pecans

3/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

5 cups toasted pecans

In a large pot, combine the sugar and water and bring to a boil. Add the pecans and stir occasionally. Reduce the heat to medium high. As the liquid evaporates, stir the nuts vigorously. When they are crystallized, remove and cool in a single layer on a sheet pan.

Vanilla Chantilly

21/4 cups heavy cream

1 cup powdered sugar, sifted

1 vanilla bean, scraped

In a bowl, whisk the heavy cream. Slowly add the powdered sugar and vanilla bean scrapings. Whip until fluffy.

Turkey Brownies

Makes 12

2 1/3 cups cake flour

2 cups cocoa powder

Pinch of salt

16 ounces unsalted butter, melted

21 ounces 55% chocolate, melted

12 to 13 whole eggs (about 24 ounces)

7 3/4 cups sugar

1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract

Heat the oven to 300 degrees. Sift together the cake flour, cocoa powder and salt and set aside. In a separate bowl, combine the melted butter and chocolate. In a mixer with a whisk attachment, whip the eggs, sugar and vanilla to the ribbon stage. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the cake flour/cocoa powder mixture, scraping the bowl, then slowly add the butter/chocolate mixture. Spread onto a parchment-lined pan. Bake until set, about 1 hour. Cool completely. Cut brownies with a turkey cookie cutter. If desired, pipe with yellow or orange icing around edges.

See additional photos and recipes from Joachim Splichal’s backyard Thanksgiving at latimes.com/magazinesplichal.