Pyramid Audacious Apricot Ale

While summer’s still a living memory, one more fruit-scented wheat beer.

Pyramid Breweries calls this one Audacious Apricot Ale and fills the label with sketchy but clearly reckless surfing figures, presumably so nobody will think it’s some kind of frivolous soda pop. It certainly isn’t. It’s a much-decorated brew that goes back 15 years (even before Pyramid was calling itself Pyramid) and helped create the fruit beer phenomenon in this country.

So Pyramid knows what it’s doing. This is a smooth, mild wheat ale, unfiltered and 5.1% alcohol by volume, garlanded with a pure, sweet apricot note. The apricot part makes it a little hard to match with foods, but if you’re looking for a cheesecake beer (or a custard beer), here’s your brew.

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Charles Perry --

Style: A medium wheat beer with an irresistible touch of apricot on the nose

Price: $7.49 to $8.99 a six-pack

Where to find it: At Beverages & More stores ( www.bevmo.com), Hi-Time Wines in Costa Mesa and Beverage Warehouse in Mar Vista