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New York Fashion Week fall 2013: Barbara Tfank review

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NEW YORK -- Los Angeles-based designer Barbara Tfank, whose fans include Michelle Obama and Adele, took her uptown collection downtown for fall-winter 2013, hosting her presentation at a Chelsea art gallery, which was appropriate considering the inspiration.

The inspiration: The rich tones and textures in Matisse’s “Odalisque,” which depicts a woman in Ottoman red trousers, lounging in a room full of vivid textiles.

The look: Glorious opulence. Exquisite, colorful fabrics that Tfank develops herself, and classic shapes. A gold and black silk lame column gown with a rolled collar and deep back that was as pretty coming as going. A shocking pink and black trompe l’oeil, lace full-skirted dress with three-quarters sleeves. A pink and black bouquet belted satin smoking jacket with pink fur cuffs and collar, worn with black satin evening pants. A teal and gold brocade slim dress with the reverse of the fabric on an overcoat. A shimmery midnight blue silk bias-cut, ruffle-edge coat, worn with a matching liquidy silk wrap bodice slim dress. (How chic is it to have a cocktail dress and matching evening coat?)

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“Everyone is doing all the military thing and tons of black, which is so depressing,” Tfank said of New York Fashion Week. “I mean, really, haven’t we had enough? I wanted a sweetness.”

The verdict: Pure joie de vivre.

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