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At Lock & Key, a new speakeasy in Koreatown

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A single red door stands out along a wall dyed yellow by the bright lights on Vermont Avenue in Koreatown. There’s no signage to ensure you’re at the right place. To the right, Stall 239, a new walk-up restaurant serving international street food and artisan sandwiches, has closed for the night. A person looks through a peephole after two knocks on the door.

The door opens into a small, dimly lit waiting room with an expansive wall of doorknobs. As a hostess welcomes you to Lock & Key, she points to the dozens of doorknobs, “Try out a knob to get in.” (The hostess will give you a hint if you’re too far from the mark.)

Only one doorknob gives you access to this 1920s-era, Hollywood-meets-Koreatown speakeasy. Once inside, a large white marble bar showcases fresh drink accoutrements from a local farmers market. Riveted green leather chairs and banquettes are inviting, while dark wood, black walls patterned with stencils of gold chains and moody jazz music create a mellow atmosphere.

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A menu of 10 craft cocktails developed by Christophe Namer, formerly of the now-shuttered Pastis, sits framed at the bar between crystal punch bowls filled with fresh fruit. A bartender promises, upon inquiry, that the Torpedo “will take you on a journey.”

The pear vodka, ginger, sesame oil and black pepper concoction doesn’t disappoint. Artichoke, serrano peppers, coriander seeds and egg whites are other savory items that make their way into Lock & Key’s signature cocktails.

A few young professionals fill the bar seating while a group of hungry diners snap pictures of Stall 239 offerings like galbi, fried chicken and garlic fries that are served inside the bar until 10 p.m. during the week.

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The kitchen plans to stay open later on weekends, which means you won’t have to step away from the bar to indulge in a drunken street food binge.

239 S. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 389-5625.

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