
“Blistered” little gems are flavored with anchovy garlic pestata, bread crumbs and aged caprino Sardo. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Co-owners Steve Samson, at the grill, and Zach Pollack. Samson developed pizzas at David Myers’ Pizzeria Ortica in Costa Mesa. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Chickpea panelle with lemon and ragusano, a southern Italian fritter, fried to a warm gold but creamy inside. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
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The wood-fired Margherita pizza is made with tomato, mozzarella, basil and extra-virgin olive oil. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Bartender Sean Hines pours wine for, center to right, Jen Leung, Tammy Fong and Jennifer Kim. The restaurant is down a few steps from Pico Boulevard, beneath Ricardo Zarate’s new Picca restaurant. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Squid ink fusilli lunghi is flavored with pistachios, bottarga and mint. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)

Whole grilled orata, with almond, wild fennel and currant acquasale. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
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Sheep’s milk yogurt panna cotta is very sweet, made with thyme, honey, almond amaretti and blood orange. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)