PARIS -- In his fall collection shown at Paris Fashion Week on Sunday, Riccardo Tisci, the man who turned Bambi print sweatshirts and fierce magnetic tusk earrings into trends, turned his attention away from the street and toward a new sophistication.
Where his last few runway shows were full-on entertainment extravaganzas with live musical guests and model choreography, this one was more intimate. The straightforward runway presentation put the spotlight on the clothes, or more specifically, the fine details.
The sheer printed, ruffled chiffon dresses worn with black stockings and heels that opened the show signaled the new, dressed-up mood. It continued into super-feminine, super-luxe coats, one with panels of blush pink fur and buttery leather.
From there, Tisci showed off his tailoring skills, playing with several interesting propositions, including trousers with wide, decorative bands at the hips, or in between the shoulders on the backs of boxy, cropped jackets.
Among the more curious, even avant-garde ideas? A sweater not tied around the waist, but suspended from an elastic band belt, and bejeweled and embroidered apron tops worn with pleated black skirts.
Not all of it worked (those hip-strapped pants could be a tough sell for some of Givenchy's high-profile, celebrity bombshells). Nevertheless, it was a brave new direction for Tisci and it will be exciting to see where it leads.
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