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Paris Fashion Week fall 2013: Rochas review

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PARIS -- A handsome woman. That’s the slice of femininity that designer Marco Zanini was going for with his fall 2013 collection for the house of Rochas, presented Wednesday afternoon during Paris Fashion Week.

The look: A masculine-feminine mix with exaggerated shapes and silhouettes. Mannish blazers with contoured lapels and oversized coats in tufted textures belted over super-slim pencil skirts and cropped trousers. Boyfriend cardigans or checked wool bomber jackets over hyper-feminine, pleated circle skirts as wide as a door frame. Languid silk evening pajamas. Captivating color combinations, camel with lavender and citrine with pearl gray for example. Shoes ranged from sensible lug sole flats, to heels so steeply pitched that the models had difficulty walking in them.

The verdict: A quirky vision better suited to magazine spreads than real life. The silhouettes were just too exaggerated, and the fabrics too heavy and stiff.

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