Paris Fashion Week: Haider Ackermann finds a new femininity

Haider Ackermann, the maestro of lyrical layering, found a new femininity in his spring collection shown Saturday during Paris Fashion Week.

The moody color palette ranged from nearly translucent pearl, to dusty rose and lavender, to chartreuse green. And Ackermann’s signature layering took on romantic new forms. For example, a sleeveless blush pink jacket with multiple peplums peeking from underneath like layers of mille-feuille, which was belted over white patent leather pants for a contemporary jolt. And a chartreuse organza bomber bunched, folded, and molded into something approaching one of Georgia O’Keeffe’s abstract flowers.

There were more loose, languid pieces, too—an unstructured dusty rose silk jacket and baggy trousers with the ease of pajamas, and a smoke-hued organza duster coat as light as vapor. And the tuxedo pants with stripes on the inside and outside of the legs were just plain cool.

It was exciting to see Ackermann breaking new ground. And his choice to pair the softest, most romantic looks with racy vinyl pants added sauce to the sweet.

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