It was frothy femininity to the hilt when Marco Zanini showed his spring 2014 Rochas collection Wednesday afternoon at the Palais Trocadero, in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.
The inspiration: "The Glass Menagerie," according to the show notes.
The look: Neo-romantic. Less sultry-and-sad Southern Gothic Tennessee Williams drama, and more-literal glass menagerie of quirky crystal figurines, which translated into candy-colored textiles with frosted surfaces, polished crystal-ball-shaped buttons and baubles.
Zanini worked with textile houses in France and Italy to create unique fabrications, according to the show notes. Duchesse silk was bonded with organza. Roses were hand-painted on sheered velvet. And tinsel-like Nigel (a bright, technical fiber) was applied to garments to add a "neon spark."
Key pieces: Colorful organza and frosted lace skirts and dresses in lengths that stretched to the ankle or shin. Boxy jackets and slim coats. Sheer T-shirts and polos over lace bra tops. Tulle tutus. Crystal rope necklaces. Bedroom shoes, including mules adorned with sprays of ostrich feathers.
The verdict: Syrupy sweet with a sense of humor. It's too bad that now that Zanini really seems to really be hitting his stride at Rochas, he's leaving the brand to design for Elsa Schiaparelli. This was his last season in his present post, and he will be replaced at Rochas by Allesandro dell'Acqua.
And fashion's revolving door keeps turning...
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