We saw a record-setting snowstorm, a disgraced designer given a second chance and Santa Cruz cited as a fashion inspiration. New York Fashion Week, which wrapped up Thursday night, was as crazy as ever.
Here are the week's big takeaways about coming trends for fall and things of note in the design world.
Galliano's second chance
"Schmuck." That was the headline the New York Post ran Wednesday with a cover photo of disgraced designer
It's probably not what Oscar de la Renta had in mind when he invited Galliano to come work in his New York studio. Fired from the French fashion house
De la Renta has said he would like to have Galliano stay on, and if he does it will be something to watch this mind-meld.
Borrowed from the boys
Houndstooth, herringbone, tweed, glen plaid, camouflage and other military touches were all over the runways, as menswear touches permeated the women's collections. Rag & Bone designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright had one of the freshest takes on the trend: 1960s inspired, with a little punk and grunge thrown in. They showed a new, boxy proportion, with quilted leather or tweed jackets worn with cropped utility pants or miniskirts. The hot new shoe was a quilted loafer bootie in electric blue pony hair.
Pony hair was the fall season's favorite new fabrication, seen on flouncy skirts (
Sweats not just for sweating
Luxe sweat shirts with pony hair, leather or fur details were a hot item, seen at
Fur (and leather) still flying
Just when you thought there was no real estate left unfurred, out came the fur mittens at Alexander Wang and Joseph
Opulence at all prices
Contemporary designers, who sell clothing at comparatively accessible price points (mostly less than $1,000), continued to up their game, showing must-have items in high-quality fabrications. Nobody did it better than
Into bohemian territory
In some circles, fashion is entering more bohemian territory. Inspired by Morocco,
The Minimalist movement was still going strong too, seen in Calvin Klein's strong and sculptural perforated felt dresses,
Inspired by the work of L.A. photographer John Divola, whose "Zuma" series captured the slow decay of beachside structures, the
Shapes were spare but decorated and ladylike. Barely-there colors highlighted innovative textures, including printed perforated leathers woven together to give the illusion of tweed, modern boucles made from synthetic yarns woven on elastic looms and futuristic lace and eyelet created using ultrasonic welding techniques. The look was young
Fashion's free spirits
Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy took inspiration from Santa Cruz, creating a magical melding of counterculture style, hippies, Dead Heads, goths, Hells Angels, yogis, beach bums and all. The stars of the show were body-skimming tie-dyed satin gowns in reds, blues and pinks, some with crystal rose embroideries. Not all of it worked, but at least the Mulleavys had the creative juices flowing.
So did Kimberly Ovitz, daughter of Hollywood power player Michael Ovitz, who was inspired by protective exoskeletons that evoked otherwordly warrior princesses. What was really unique, though, was her debut jewelry line, created in collaboration with Shapeways. The pieces, made using 3-D printing technology, which involves lasers cutting through blocks of powder, were designed to look like a second skin, said Ovitz, who is interested in exploring how fashion designers can use new technology. And it's a topic more designers should be thinking about.