Tempest in a teakettle

A spot of tea makes a bad day better -- ask a resident of the United Kingdom at 3:30 p.m., or any human who appreciates one of the world’s great restoratives. How about a cup right now?

You’ve got your fresh, loose leaves, your favorite cup, a little honey, maybe, standing by. You’ve got the connoisseur’s drill down. But hold on. What’s the best way to boil water for that tea?

This may sound like a simple question, even a dumb one. But your third-grade teacher was right. There are no simple or dumb questions.

Europeans, including the British, have long preferred electric countertop teakettles to heat water destined for tea; Americans tend to like the stove-top “whistle when ready” models. Of course, it was the only real choice we had.

But in recent years, Euro-style electric kettles have hit the U.S. market and the resulting controversy -- should we toss our stove-tops for the novel new electrics? -- has created a tempest in the Test Kitchen.

We tested many examples of both styles, selected the best of each and then staged a dramatic face-off between the winners in the two categories. We called it the Thrilla on the Grilla. (Microwaves are simply unacceptable for this purpose. In that unnatural way they have, they heat the water without boiling it, leaving a flat and disagreeable taste).

We pitted five electrics against four stove-top teakettles, scoring each with a numerical system that rated time to boil, design (ergonomics and aesthetics), as well as workmanship and value. Although these four factors were most important, we also took into account heat retention and the weight of the kettle.

The championship round was a duel between the winners in each category: the Chef’s Choice International Deluxe Cordless Electric versus the Oxo Good Grips Uplift stove-top kettle.

To boil four cups of water, the Chef’s Choice clocked in at 4 minutes, 11 seconds; the Oxo stove-top kettle took 6 minutes, 54 seconds. We poured the water, waited until it cooled to 180 degrees and steeped Dragon Well green tea for two minutes.

We both enjoyed our cups of tea as we continued arguing.

The kettles weren’t the only thing steaming. One of us favors electric kettles. They’re faster. They don’t sit on the stove and collect grease from non-related cooking activities. They are designed so that there is virtually no chance of burning yourself.

The stove-top kettle advocate was not swayed, starting with the faster-is-better argument. “What’s two minutes in the course of a day?” she asks.

Besides, she likes her whistle and she will not do without it. That way she doesn’t have to stand there twiddling her thumbs while she watches a pot. And the grease build-up issue? Just wash it, she says.

Hence, our numerical rating system. Math settled the score. The kettle that won the most points, 33, was the electric Chef’s Choice. The Oxo scored a 29. Case closed.

Here’s how the finalists in each category performed, listed in order from excellent to not-so-good.

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Electric kettles

Kettle King

The stainless International Deluxe Cordless Electric from Chef’s Choice (model 685) has an ample 1 1/3 -quart capacity and a detachable lid. Weighs less than 2 pounds.

What’s the difference: It boils water second-quickest of all the kettles tested -- 4 minutes, 11 seconds. It is well designed, with a handle that offers an especially comfortable grip.

What we thought: This is our all-around winner because it has all the essential features in an effective package for a good price. Our rating: 33 points.

How much: About $70 at Sur La Table; similar pricing at www.amazon.com and other online sites.

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Nifty and thrifty

The stainless utiliTEA Variable Temperature Kettle has a relatively small capacity (just under one quart) and weighs in at 1 1/2 pounds. It comes with a guide that indicates brewing times and temperatures for different kinds of teas.

What’s the difference: It doesn’t just boil water, it has specific settings that will bring it to either 180 degrees (in 2 1/2 minutes) for green tea or 220 degrees (in 4 minutes, 23 seconds) for black tea.

What we thought: An excellent kettle for the price, compact and pours well. It lacks some of the bells and whistles of the more expensive models but is functional and kind of cute. 29 points.

How much: About $50 plus shipping at www.adagio.com.

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Handsome devil

The new brushed aluminum electric kettle from DeLonghi (DSJ900 series) has a large capacity (about 1 1/2 quarts) and weighs 3 pounds.

What’s the difference: This is the best-looking electric kettle, sleek in brushed aluminum (which leaves no trace of fingertips) with a gracefully arched Lucite handle. Solid and seemingly durable, it is also the slowest of the electric models to boil (5 minutes) and the heaviest of the kettles tested.

What we thought: A pleasure to behold (though one editor says it resembles a nuclear warhead). Great to handle, with a water level indicator and very precise pour (no danger of splashing). If price is no object, you don’t mind waiting five minutes for a boil, and you can handle the weight, this is the one to get. 26 points.

How much: About $130 at Bloomingdale’s in Century City; also online at www.cooking.com, www.amazon.com and other sites.

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Light and lively

Bodum’s Electric Water Kettle is made of a heat-reinforced polypropylene plastic and comes in black or white. It’s a large-capacity kettle, holding about 1 3/4 quarts with a hinged lid. It weighs in at just less than a pound.

What’s the difference: The little red floating ball on the water indicator panel is a cheerful detail. Boils in 4 minutes, 50 seconds.

What we thought: This might feel a little dinky, but it’s an excellent bargain model. 25 points.

How much: About $30 at Sur La Table. Similar pricing at www.bodumusa.com and other online sites.

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Fast and new

The new brushed stainless Electric Kettle from Krups (FLF 3) has an ample capacity of more than 1 1/2 quarts and a detachable lid. It weighs 2 1/2 pounds.

What’s the difference: This is the fastest (4 minutes to boil) and lightest of the expensive models, so it has a lot going for it. It also has a nice, precise pour.

What we thought: Design flaws such as a troublesome top and a problematic cord (which kept getting stuck in its base, making it much too short) brought down this kettle’s rating. 20 points.

How much: About $70 at Sur La Table, similar pricing at www.kitchenkapers.com and other online sites.

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Stove-top kettles

American standard

The Oxo Good Grips Uplift has solid enamel-on-steel construction, a medium 2-quart capacity and a heat-resistant lid. It weighs 3 pounds.

What’s the difference: This pot has novel design features. When it’s lifted by the heat-resistant handle, the spout opens automatically. And the fill-hole is positioned at a rakish angle, making it easy to add water, which boils in 6 minutes, 54 seconds. The lid fits very tightly and the only steam escaping is through the spout. It’s built to last.

What we thought: This kettle is our hands-down favorite stove-top model. It’s a little heavier than others, but the ergonomically-friendly design makes it the easiest to use. It looks great, it’s easy to clean and it comes in an array of smart colors. 29 points.

How much: About $50 at Sur La Table, Williams-Sonoma, Target and other retailers.

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Pretty traditional

The Simplex English Copper Kettle, handmade in England, (also available in stainless steel) holds 2 quarts and is simple to fill. It weighs 1 1/2 pounds. This is the same kettle Simplex has been making for the last century.

What’s the difference: The Simplex requires frequent cleaning to prevent tarnishing. No elaborate attachments; the whistle is a bit faint. Boils water in 7 minutes, 13 seconds.

What we thought: It’s easy to handle, beautifully crafted, light yet sturdy, but hard to keep clean, with its high-maintenance copper finish. No steam leaks out of the top, making it a safe, practical choice. It’ll cost you a pretty copper penny, though. 25 points.

How much: About $90 at Sur La Table and Williams-Sonoma.

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Spouting off

The Copco Torino has a carafe-like style with no spout and a medium 2 1/2 -quart capacity. It weighs 2 3/4 pounds.

What’s the difference: It has no spout, and the whistle’s built into the lid. Boils in 9 minutes, 14 seconds.

What we thought: This Copco is a heavy, cumbersome kettle, hard to pour. There’s steam seepage around the lid and the steam guard makes filling and pouring difficult. It’s a slow-boiler. 22 points.

How much: About $40 at Crate & Barrel and Linens ‘n Things.

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Short and stout

The Zen Kettle from Le Creuset is an enameled steel kettle, squat in stature, with a small 1.6-quart capacity. It weighs 2 1/2 pounds.

What’s the difference: The low-profile design gives it a fast boiling time (4 minutes, 30 seconds) for a stove-top model. The whistle is loud.

What we thought: Bad idea alert: Pouring is dangerous because the whistle has to be removed from the spout while it’s steaming. What you gain in speed, you lose in safety. 19 points.

How much: $60 at Sur La Table.

-- Cindy Dorn and Laurie Winer