2005 Domaine Raymond Dupont-Fahn Bourgogne ‘Chaumes des Perrieres’

Buying a straight Bourgogne rarely gets you anything other than an unremarkable white Burgundy at the bottom rung of the appellation’s hierarchy, but Domaine Raymond Dupont-Fahn’s is much more than that, mainly because the vineyard is declassified Meurseult. The soil in part of the vineyard was too shallow to plant properly, so some topsoil had to be added. And that is a big non-non in Burgundy. But not for Burgundy lovers, because this barrel-fermented blanc from 40-year-old vines has an elegance that belies its humble appellation. Ripe and full, the 2005 has butterscotch and smoke in the nose and an earthy finish. Drink up, with scallops, risotto, steamed mussels, fish or roast chicken with morels and cream.

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Quick swirl

Region: Burgundy

Price: $28

Style: Rich and earthy

Food it goes with: Seafood risotto, chicken with morels

Where you find it: Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Silver Lake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX

S. Irene Virbila