At Torihei in Torrance, chefs Masataka Hirai and Masakazu Sasaki have created an incredible union of oden and yakitori dishes. (Stefano Paltera / For The Times)
Long-simmered daikon is turned nearly translucent by its time in the subtly salty dashi. (Stefano Paltera / For The Times)
The fresh fish cake is without fault a faintly fishy triangle that floats with the same airy texture as a marshmallow. (Stefano Paltera / For The Times)
Chef Masataka Hirai grills yakitori skewers. (Stefano Paltera / For The Times)
The restaurant’s charcoal grill turns out a daunting but gratifying whole grilled squid. (Stefano Paltera / For The Times)
The meatballs are fluffy spheres that melt in your mouth like some meaty candy. (Stefano Paltera / For The Times)
