Wine review: 2010 Matthiasson Napa Valley White Wine

When I first tasted this lovely white from Steve Matthiasson with his wife, Jill Klein Matthiasson, I thought Loire Valley. But this, surprise, surprise, comes from Napa Valley. A vineyard consultant by day, Matthiasson is part of a new generation of winemakers who work their vineyards sustainably and are intent on making wines that don't taste like everybody else's.

The Matthiasson white is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Ribolla Gialla, Sémillon and Tocai Friulano. How did he come up with that? Green apple and lime zest comes through on the nose. What I love is this crisp white's minerality, beautiful acidity and laser focus, not to mention the flavors of lychee and white peach and its fresh clean finish.

The white is great with sushi, chilled shellfish platters, oysters and more oysters — and cheese.

Region: Napa Valley

Price: $28 to $35

Style: Crisp and minerally

What it goes with: Oysters, chilled shellfish platters, sushi, cheese

Where to find it: Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463, Venokado in West Hollywood, (323) 850-1600, the Wine Country in Signal Hill, (562) 597-8303, and directly from Matthiasson.

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