Dining details: Addison

Addison

Rating: ***

Location: The Grand Del Mar, 5200 Grand Del Mar Way, San Diego, (858) 314-1900; www.thegranddelmar.com.

Ambience: Luxe golf resort restaurant with flamboyant Floridian-Mediterranean décor and a well-heeled clientele.

Service: Strikes a good balance between formal and friendly. Wine service is exceptional.

Price: Starters, $15 to $21; main courses, $35 to $46; desserts, $12; six-course tasting menu, $110 per person.

Best dishes: Potato gnocchi with Gouda fondue and cocotte egg, mussels with Meyer lemon mousseline, prawns in beurre noisette, risotto of pine nuts and Parmigiano, Dover sole with sauce of vin Jaune, gingerbread spiced poularde, loup de mer with charred tomatillos, cake with dates and walnuts, salted pecan tart.

Wine list: Fascinating and deep, with more than 1,500 selections. Corkage $25, off-the-list wines only.

Best table: One of the two high-sided booths in the corner.

Details: Open for dinner only from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays. Complimentary valet parking.

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.