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Jonathan Gold's 10 best dishes of the year
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Best dishes of 2013( Los Angeles Times )
In 2013, it seemed as if the world's food establishment finally began to realize the genius of Los Angeles cooking -- and with it the possibility that your next great meal could come from a truck that parked by your favorite coffee roaster on Wednesday afternoons or from a barely renovated pizza parlor in a dingy mini-mall, or that it might involve an elaborate tasting menu or a single taco. A national magazine ignored multimillion-dollar build-outs to honor a tiny startup in a weird L.A. neighborhood as the best new restaurant in the country. (Alma, which was on The Times list for 2012.) The line between high and low cuisine had always been a bit fuzzy here, but this was a year when it practically vanished in the restaurants themselves.
Is it possible to characterize the complexity and wonder of Los Angeles cooking in a list of dishes from new restaurants? Probably not. But here, not without a certain amount of anguish, are the best 10 dishes of the year.