Cecconi's ** LOCATION 8764 Melrose Ave. (at Robertson), West Hollywood, (310) 432-2000; www.cecconiswesthollywood. AMBIENCE Chic London import in the old Morton's space with gracious outdoor terrace, an active bar scene and moderately priced Italian cooking from Mirko Paderno (Dolce, All' Angelo). You'd think the scene would trump the food, but here, it's the reverse. SERVICE Sometimes very good, sometimes disorganized. PRICE Dinner appetizers and salads, $9 to $18; pizza, $15 to $18; pasta and risotto, $10 to $22; from the charcoal grill or wood oven, $16 to $38; sides, $6; desserts, $9. Breakfast and lunch items less expensive. BEST DISHES Octopus with lemon and green olives; vitello tonnato; wood oven-baked veal meatballs; salmon tartare; pappardelle with house-made sausage, Romanesco broccoli ravioli with clams; veal chop with pea shoots and lemon; whole roast chicken; blood orange cake. WINE LIST Not brilliant but a handful of good Italians at fairly reasonable prices. Corkage fee, $25. BEST TABLE One on the outside terrace. DETAILS Open 7 a.m. to midnight Monday to Wednesday, 7 a.m. to 2 a.m. Thursday to Saturday, and 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday. Full bar. Valet parking, complimentary at breakfast and lunch, $8 at dinner. Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.
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