Church & State *** LOCATION 1850 Industrial St., Los Angeles; (213) 405-1434; www.churchandstatebistro.com. AMBIENCE Lively bistro in what was once the loading dock of the 1925 National Biscuit Co. building. Church & State rocks for the ambience and the food. SERVICE Friendly and persuasive. PRICE Oysters, $26 a dozen; charcuterie plate $14; hors d'oeuvres, $3 to $19; salads, $9 to $12; main courses, $11 to $26; sides, $6; cheese selection, $12 to $18; desserts, $7 to $8. BEST DISHES Flammenküche, smoked salmon tart, escargots, roasted marrow bone, herring salad, charcuterie plate, endive salad, roast chicken, steak frites, cassoulet, pommes frites au lard, tangerine pot de crème, cherry tart. WINE LIST Could have more interesting choices. Corkage fee, $15. BEST TABLE One in the front window. DETAILS Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday to Friday and for dinner 6 to 10 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, 6 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Full bar. Guarded lot parking, $4. Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.
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