Restaurant review: Bastide at West Hollywood

Bastide *** 1/2 LOCATION 8475 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, (323) 651-5950.AMBIENCE Elegant and romantic contemporary restaurant set in a small house with walled, lavender-scented garden in front, the setting the creation of Paris design guru Andrée Putman. The new chef is Paul Shoemaker, former chef de cuisine at Providence.SERVICE Exceptionally attentive and informed.PRICE Appetizers, $22 to $26; main courses, $36 to $40; desserts, $12; eight-course chef's menu, $125 per person; wine pairings, $110 per person.Best dishes: Menu changes frequently. Japanese tai sashimi, spiny lobster, wild French turbot, Sonoma lamb, veal, Kobe beef, chocolate cream, caramelized pain perdu.WINE LIST Extraordinarily wide-ranging and exciting. No outside bottles allowed.BEST TABLE One at the edge of the garden, or the chef's table looking into the kitchen.SPECIAL FEATURES Wine bar open during restaurant hours; all wines $18 per glass.Details: Open for dinner from 6 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and from 6 to 10:30 p.m. Saturday. Free valet parking.

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory. /food

See a photo gallery of scenes and dishes at Bastide.

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