The British couple — she in a long black dress, he in a traditional tux — leaned against the elevator's polished wood paneling as they headed back to their cabin after an evening performance in the main showroom. Embarrassed at my casual clothes and running shoes, I stammered, "We decided not to dress up and went to the buffet instead of the main dining room."
"Lucky you," she said. "There are 46 more formal nights for us."
"You're on the entire world cruise?" I asked.
They were — all 103 days of it. We were not.
Of the 2,500 passengers who boarded the QM2 in January 2011 in Southampton, England; New York;...