Larry Flynt

Review: True Italian finds a home at Gusto

Review: True Italian finds a home at Gusto

West Third Street used to have such a quirky charm for a neighborhood shopping district. For the past few years, though, glitzy boutiques and boites have displaced some of the old places as it gets a makeover as glamour puss. One welcome — and surprising — newcomer is Gusto, a terrific cozy Italian restaurant from a young chef with the unforgettable name of Victor Casanova.

The New York native arrived in L.A. three years ago to open Culina, the casual modern Italian in the Four Seasons Beverly Hills. The food was polished and sophisticated, with a separate bar devoted to trendy crudo. He knew all the moves. In New York, he'd worked with Scott Conant, Cesare Casella...