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Leonard Bernstein
A taste of Hungary's history in Budapest's sumptuous coffeehouses
A taste of Hungary's history in Budapest's sumptuous coffeehouses

BUDAPEST, Hungary —American coffeehouses are prized for their quick service and fast Internet — ideal for people on the go. But a century ago, European cafes were places to linger amid Gilded Age opulence. Nowhere was this more so than in Budapest, where some of its great historic cafes have survived economic crises, war and Communism. My wife, Rachel, and my mother-in-law, Edie, had never been to Hungary, but they had been hearing about Budapest and its grand avenues, delicious pastries and vibrant Jewish community all their lives: Edie's parents were born here in the 1890s. Traveling with us in August on our voyage of reconnection was our infant son, Yair. Both of...

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