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Jonathan Gold: Gwen, a manly restaurant and butcher shop, simply screams 'steak'

Jonathan Gold: Gwen, a manly restaurant and butcher shop, simply screams 'steak'

On your way into Gwen, the Hollywood restaurant run by Curtis Stone and his brother, Luke, a former florist, you will probably spend a few seconds browsing the retail butcher’s counter, a display of Victorian lavishness — fat birds, richly marbled meats and intricate pâtés.  I am a fan of McCall’s Meat & Fish Co., Belcampo Meat Co. and Alexander’s Prime Meats, but there is nothing in Los Angeles quite like the display case at Gwen, stocked with extra-aged steaks as pungent as Stilton and chops from pedigreed pigs, plump sausages and rolled roasts of lamb. Butcher Alex Jermasek is a rock star of meat.

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