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Urasawa
The ultimate sea urchin experience
The ultimate sea urchin experience

I remember someone three seats down from me at Ginza Sushi-ko (the predecessor of Urasawa), eating an entire box of the ochre uni that Masa Takayama had specially sourced. Sometimes, if you were lucky, he'd hand you a cone of exquisite black green toasted nori filled with four or five skeins of sea urchin roe. For me, that will always be the ultimate sea urchin experience. Not everybody appreciates its almost unbearably intense sea funk. As with bottarga, you generally either love it or hate it. I'm decidedly in the first camp, happy to eat it on top of a buttered crostini or toast, tossed raw with hot spaghetti as they eat it in Puglia, or eaten raw out of the shell. Fishing...

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