Dining details: Urasawa

Urasawa

Rating: ***

Location: 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 247-8939, fax (310) 247-9689

Ambience: Small, elegant Japanese and sushi restaurant where Hiro Urasawa presents an exquisite kaiseki-style menu followed by equally superb sushi

Service: Amiable and amazingly fast

Price: $250 per person, not including tax, tip or beverages

Best dishes: The kaiseki dishes that change with the season: goma dofu (sesame tofu), yuba (soy milk skin), seared toro or Kobe beef, sushi, hot pots

Wine list: A small selection of handcrafted sakes. Corkage complimentary.

Best table: Corner seats at the sushi bar

Special features: Private room

Details: Open daily by reservation only. Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Beer and wine only. Valet parking, $5 with validation.

Rating is based on food, service and ambience, with price taken into account in relation to quality. ****: Outstanding on every level. ***: Excellent. **: Very good. *: Good. No star: Poor to satisfactory.