Big Deal Restaurants

Is there someone you need to impress? You’ll have to spend a little money, but then haute attitudes don’t come cheap in this town. L’Ermitage, 730 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 652-5840. Style: L.A.’s first serious French restaurant continues to set the standard. Setting: Comfortable modern elegance. Recommended dishes: Feuillete with salmon in beurre blanc ; roasted squab; aiguillete of duck breast in red wine sauce. Cost per person: $40-$75.

L’Orangerie, 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood. (213) 652-9770. Style: Costly classic French. Setting: Drop-dead gorgeous. Recommended dishes: Seafood salad with raspberry vinegar; rack of lamb; tarte aux pommes chaudes (apple tart) . Cost per person: $50-$70.

Michael’s, 1147 Third Street, Santa Monica. (213) 451-0843. Style: One of L.A.’s most expensive restaurants and proud of it. Setting: Gorgeous outdoor garden, lots of contemporary art. Recommended dishes: Saddle of lamb; chicken breast with duck liver and morel mushrooms. Cost per person: $60-$75.

Rex Il Ristorante, 617 S. Olive St., Los Angeles. (213) 627-2300. Style: Perfect pasta in precious portions. Setting: Lusciously luxurious with lots of Lalique. Recommended dishes: Ravioli di pesce (fish ravioli); baby salmon in sorrel sauce; veal with artichoke hearts. Cost per person: $50-$65.