The Cool Cook : Cookbook: Pat Baird’s ‘Quick Harvest’ offers a lively approach to microwave cooking.

Generally I use a microwave oven intensively--for reheating leftovers, melting butter, warming up tepid coffee--but not for serious cooking. It was, therefore, a surprise to discover how good microwave-prepared food can be.

My guide in experimenting was “Quick Harvest” by Pat Baird (Prentice Hall Press: $21.95). Baird, a New York-based registered dietitian, home economist and food consultant, has aimed this microwave cookbook at vegetarians, but the recipes fit nicely into menus with meat as well. Certainly main dishes such as lasagna with cheese and tomato sauce will please all tastes.

Baird has a lively approach to food. International favorites such as Thai hot-and-sour soup, quesadillas with salsa verde, Indian lentils and sushi are sprinkled through the pages along with everyday American foods such as corn chowder, stuffed potatoes and chili.

There’s an outstanding caponata, and I had excellent results with garlicky steamed artichokes and rosemary-scented spoon bread. For a company dessert, I tore apart some tired rolls and turned them into bread pudding, adding raisins soaked in a heady amount of dark rum. I literally threw this together at the last minute--that’s the advantage of microwaving--and it was sensational.

Baird provides concise instructions on microwave procedures and equipment. Other features of the book include a quick guide to microwaving vegetables, grains and cereals, a chart on seasonal availability of produce, and a chapter on healthy eating.

NO-SWEAT LASAGNA

1 (15-ounce) container ricotta cheese

2 eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup chopped parsley

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 cups Chunky Tomato Sauce

9 lasagna noodles, uncooked

2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

Combine ricotta cheese, eggs and 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese in large bowl. Add parsley, salt and pepper. Mix until thoroughly blended. Pour 1 cup Chunky Tomato Sauce into 11x7-inch microwaveable baking dish. Spread sauce evenly to cover bottom of dish.

Arrange 3 noodles in single layer on top of sauce. Spoon 1/3 ricotta mixture over noodles. Sprinkle with about 1/3 each remaining Parmesan and mozzarella cheeses. Pour another 1 cup sauce over cheese. Arrange another layer noodles, cheese and sauce on top. Repeat with remaining ingredients.

Cover tightly with vented plastic wrap. Microwave on MEDIUM 12 to 18 minutes, or until noodles are just tender when pierced with tip of sharp knife and sauce is bubbling. Rotate twice during cooking. Let stand, covered, 15 minutes before serving. Makes 6 servings.

Chunky Tomato Sauce

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, coarsely chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

3 pounds tomatoes, chopped, or 4 cups canned whole tomatoes, with juices

3 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano or 2 teaspoons dried, crumbled

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or 1 tablespoon dried, crumbled

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Salt

Combine olive oil, onion and garlic in 3-quart microwaveable casserole. Microwave on HIGH 3 to 4 minutes, or until onion is tender. Stir in tomatoes. (If using canned tomatoes, break up with back of spoon.) Microwave on HIGH 6 minutes, or until sauce is just boiling.

Add parsley, sugar, oregano, basil, thyme and pepper, stirring well to combine. Microwave on HIGH 8 minutes, or until sauce is thickened slightly. Rotate and stir once during cooking. Let stand 5 minutes before serving. Adjust seasonings, adding salt to taste. Makes about 6 cups.

Note: If smoother sauce is desired, cool slightly and put through food mill or pulse several times in food processor.