Family-Run Royal Hawaiian Is an Island Paradise in Laguna

Anyone who remembers dining out in the ‘40s and ‘50s is bound to recollect the popularity of Polynesian restaurants. Save for the illustrious Trader Vic’s, few of this romantic ilk have managed to survive these trendy times. A noteworthy exception is the Royal Hawaiian, which, under the same family ownership for more than 45 years, is considered by some a Laguna Beach landmark.

Opened by the Hawaiian-born Francis Cabang in December, 1947, the Royal Hawaiian is a replica of a Polynesian hut. Several years after its opening, the nine-table, 50-seat original dining room with its thatched roof exterior was converted to a sensuous network of island-inspired areas serving up to 160 diners.

A line of people waiting outside, de rigueur on weekends, is no deterrent to the dedicated clientele from in and out of town. The intimate tropical bar, illuminated with tanks of exotic fish, continues to attract a third generation of the original clientele who have come to enjoy the same camaraderie and potent tropi-cocktails at prices barely elevated from when the place opened. A dry martini may still be had for $2.25; mai tais and Chi Chi drinks are just $3. Dinner prices, too, show a miniscule increase from the early days.

Under management of Cabang’s children, Marilyn and J.R., the menu is virtually unchanged. Iced relishes, crackers and butter are hastened tableside with menus as drink orders are expedited. Entrees, which are served with a briny onion soup and the popular Ono Ono salad (garden-variety vegetables enhanced by a homemade creamy vinaigrette dressing), mostly range from a nominal $4.95 for chopped sirloin in mushroom gravy to $9.95 for New York steak (the exception being lobster, $19.95). Hands-down favorite at $8.95 seems to be the barbecued ribs, deep fried shrimp or a combination.

Other entrees include broiled lamb chops, halibut, fried scallops and half a chicken. All are accompanied by a baked potato, fresh pineapple and what the restaurant calls “Indian” bread (actually just white bread served in chunks).

A flaming ice cream dessert once included in the tariff is now all of 60 cents. This family affair further caters to kids with a special $3.50 to $3.75 menu. Small wonder the place is a buzz of activity even in our current economy.

The Royal Hawaiian, 331 N. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. Open for dinner only, Tuesday through Saturday, 4 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 5 to 10 p.m. Closed Monday. (714) 494-8001.