Beyond sprouts

Health food used to mean some sorry combination of seeds and sprouts. Not anymore. Los Angeles chefs and restaurants have raised the bar.

Madeleine Bistro

Los Angeles’ only upscale vegan eatery, this West Valley newcomer is the project of two Real Food Daily veterans: David and Molly Anderson. The menu is full of intriguing offerings that don’t disappoint on the plate, such as vibrant beet tartare set on a raft of warm tofu cheese in a crisp breadcrumb jacket. Desserts are a standout too.

* Beet tartare, $8; 18621 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana, (818) 758-6971.

Vegan Glory

This casual new cafe bills itself as a vegan Thai restaurant. While you can get pad thai or fragrant yellow curry with a choice of soy fish or soy chicken (among other meat substitutes), the kitchen also turns out such health food restaurant classics as lentil loaf. Lunch is a bargain, with combinations including brown rice, a salad and spring roll starting at $7.95.

* Pad thai, $7.95; yellow curry, $9.95; 8393 Beverly Blvd., L.A. (323) 653-4900.

The Peninsula Hotel

The hotel’s Belvedere restaurant is lovely, but some insiders bypass the restaurant and head up to the rooftop garden, where they can unwind under oversized umbrellas. The brand-new Spaja menu features dishes such as chilled watermelon, tomato and jicama soup. The menu even breaks down the calories, fat grams, carbs and cholesterol for each item.

* Watermelon, tomato, jicama soup, $8; 9882 Santa Monica Blvd. South, Beverly Hills, (310) 551-2888.

Real Food Daily

This trio of vegan cafes, with outposts in West Hollywood, Beverly Hills and Santa Monica, attracts a smorgasbord of yogis, hipsters and others who know what color their aura is. We’re partial to the West Hollywood location with its sleek interior. To eat? Try the hearty faux reuben sandwich. It gives Nate ‘n Al’s a run for its money.

* Total reuben, $9.75; 414 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A. (310) 289-9910.

Inaka

In L.A. restaurant time, Inaka has had quite a run, serving “natural food” since 1976. The room is stark but the service friendly. And the Japanese hot pots such as nabeyaki (organic vegetables and soba noodles in a miso broth) are satisfying. Inaka also serves a small selection of seafood.

* Nabeyaki, $13; 131 S. La Brea Ave., L.A. (323) 936-9353.