Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2014: Kenzo review

The fashion crowd took a field trip to the Paris suburb of St. Denis on Sunday morning for the Kenzo runway show held at director Luc Besson’s impressive new film studio complex Cite du Cinema.

The scene: Creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon founded the influential Opening Ceremony boutiques and clothing label before being tapped to lead Kenzo in 2011. No doubt drawing on their retail expertise, they made the show a true experience, with a striking set of burbling bowls of water on the runway and a waterfall from which models emerged.

The inspiration: The ocean (Lim and Leon grew up in California) and L.A.’s underground music scene, according to show notes. There was also a conservation angle, a partnership with the Blue Marine Foundation to combat over fishing with funds from the sale of a line of T-shirts and sweaters available in January.

The look: Urban beach, with wave, water drop and fish prints.

Key pieces: Sleeveless cotton tops and minidresses with airy back vents. Crop top and skirt with drip embroidery resembling waves, blue pants suit with black bandeau worn over the jacket. Sweatshirt with “No Fish, No Nothing” slogan. The new “Kalifornia” envelope clutch with zipper details. Wave-printed running shoes. Neoprene sandals with metal heels. “Planet” earrings.

The verdict: Lim and Leon have found a winning formula for Kenzo, focusing on whimsical color and print to create youthful Japanese street fashion with a Paris-by-way-of-LA twist.

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