Paris Fashion Week 2014: Kenzo’s creature feature

Los Angeles Times Fashion Critic

PARIS -- For their Kenzo collection shown Sunday at Paris Fashion Week, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon were inspired by “Mulholland Drive” director David Lynch, with whom they collaborated on the music and set. (Apparently, there was a film backdrop, too, though most people couldn’t see it from their seats.)

But the reference was more about pushing the limits into something “wild and weird,” as the show notes said, than it was anything too Lynch literal. And it added up to the best Kenzo collection yet from the design duo who also founded the Opening Ceremony stores and collection.

The designers worked with a long and lean silhouette, lots of layering pieces (menswear-inspired coats, fitted peplum jackets, high-waist pants, apron dresses, biker jackets and more), and colorful prints (zigzags, sketchy florals, herringbones and foiled paisleys) and “tool-creature” embroideries. The color palette? Eye-popping: lemon yellow, safety orange, lime, red, lilac, black, blue and more.


Knitwear was particularly strong, from a black twist-front sweater dress, to a navy blue knit crew neck and flared skirt with metal and plastic embroidery. Accessories included rugged “safety boots” in rubberized leather with lug soles and Kenzo’s cool “Kalifornia” bag rendered for fall in fuzzy wool.


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