L.A. Drives: Up the Angeles Crest on the S1000XR
The Angeles Crest Highway is one of Southern California’s most scenic mountain roads. Stretching from La Canada-Flintridge to the alpine town of Wrightwood, the Crest is 66 miles of twisty, winding high-elevation driving.
The start line is just off the 210 Freeway, where Highway 2 meets Foothill Boulevard. You can begin with a good breakfast at the Hill Street Cafe, or join the throngs of motorcyclists gassing up at the Shell station – a familiar rendezvous point for bikers headed into the hills.
From there, it’s all up. Signs along the way will help you plan the trip. One will tell you whether seasonal weather or rock slides have closed any part of the road. Another will tell you just what you can expect: To our destination it’s 26.5 miles of the Crest, and that stretch alone includes just under 200 individual turns.
For this trip we borrowed a new BMW S1000XR. This admirable road warrior, as the name suggests, is an attempt to get the best of adventure and sport riding. It’s capable of some light off roading, but also handles the turns like a sport bike, and has the all-day comfort you’d expect from a touring bike.
As always, it’s important to wear the right gear – all the gear, all the time: that means a good helmet, proper gloves, and solid boots. It also means protection against the weather. This is a mountain road, and in the winter it can get quite chilly.
The speed limit on the Crest varies, as low as 40 miles per hour along some stretches and as high as 55 miles per hour in others. There’s a reason: This is a dangerous stretch of road. It has claimed many lives over the years. And it’s dangerous in the legal sense, too. The CHP is vigilant along here, and they will ticket you for speeding, and anything else they catch you doing.
The road rises quickly. With some passes above 7,000 feet, this is one of the state’s highest highways. Soon you are enjoying gigantic views of the city below. But keep your eyes on the road. And if you’re not moving as fast as the other traffic, give way. That’s what those pull-outs are for. Let the fast guys go past.
Past the turning for Angeles Forest Highway, and past the turning for Mt. Wilson, the highway straightens out somewhat and the speed limit hits 55 and stays there.
About 45 minutes after you set out, you should come to this drive’s destination – one of the most popular biker hangouts in the state. The Crest is a bucket list item for some riders. I’ve met motorcyclists from Italy and France who dream of one day carving this course. And everyone who rides the Crest – and quite a few sports car enthusiasts who drive it – comes to Newcomb’s Ranch.
The roadhouse got its start in 1888, when Louie Newcomb built a cabin and started cutting hiking trails. Fifty years later, Newcomb’s Ranch Inn opened its doors, serving meals, renting rooms and pumping gas for high mountain travelers.
The rooms and the gas are gone, but the meals are still hearty.
During the week it’s quiet, and the place keeps limited hours. Currently closed Monday through Wednesday, it’s open 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thursday and Friday, and 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
On the weekends, it’s a madhouse. It’s not unusual to see 500 bikes here – representing every kind of motorcycling, and ridden by every kind of rider -- on a sunny Sunday morning. Occasionally, a car club will fill what’s left of the parking lot.
Inside and spilling onto the outdoor patio, riders are eating pancakes and bacon in the morning and barbecue in the afternoon. Inside the bar, the TV is usually tuned to MotoGP action.
On days when I’ve got a little extra time, I like to turn off the Crest at Mt. Wilson and ride out to the observatory. This smaller road is five miles of slow-speed turns, in some places cut right through the rock hillsides. At the end of the trail are magnificent views, beneath radio and TV towers owned by local broadcasters.
In the shadow of the Mt. Wilson Observatory, if you’re there on the weekend between April and December, you can visit the Cosmic Cafe for a snack. There are also guided tours of the observatory.
After a hearty Newcomb’s meal, the ride’s not over. There’s still another 26.5 miles of twisties ahead to Wrightwood. Along the way, the views north and south are dramatic, as the road follows the ridge line and even crosses the Pacific Crest Trail at one point.
I usually enjoy another stop in Wrightwood to fuel bike and rider before getting back in the saddle again. Ahead is the full 66 miles back to the starting point.
Where we went: La Canada-Flintridge to Wrightwood
What we rode: 2016 BMW S1000XR
Where we ate: Newcomb’s Ranch, Highway 2 mile marker 50.93, La Canada-Flintridge; Evergreen Cafe, 1269 Evergreen Road, Wrightwood.
What to see: Mt. Wilson Observatory, Cosmic Cafe, Pacific Crest Trail
Total drive distance: Approximately 130 miles
Total driving and dining time: Four to five hours
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