2009 Delas Frères Crozes-Hermitage "Le Clos"
This 2009 Crozes-Hermitage from the historic Delas firm has a true northern Rhone character. Wonderfully wild and fragrant, the syrah is inky dark, tannic, yes, but modulated. It tastes of plums, blackberries, dried leaves and earth, and it changes so much in the glass that you could use up a thesaurus of adjectives to describe it.
Something to drink with your leg of boar, haunch of venison or just a good piece of beef.
Region: Rhone Valley, France
Price: From $40 to $60
What It Goes With: Game, roast beef, duck
Where to Find It: Duke of Bourbon in Canoga Park, (818) 341-1234, http://www.dukeofbourbon.com; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463, http://www.hitimewine.net; Manhattan Fine Wines in Manhattan Beach, (310) 374-3454, http://www.manhattanfinewines.com; Total Wine & More in Southern California locations, (855) 330-6673, http://www.totalwine.com; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX, http://www.winex.com.