For leeks -- rinse, rinse, rinse, repeat

Peaking

Leeks: Easily the most troublesome member of the onion family to grow, leeks have a gentle, sweet flavor that makes them almost irreplaceable in certain dishes. Good thing, or no one would ever bother with them. The white stalk is the choicest part of the leek (and the only one you should use in anything but stock). But to keep them pale and mellow, farmers have to repeatedly mound earth around them as they grow to keep them away from sunlight. This is great for the flavor but messy for cooks. To be certain you get rid of any sand, quarter the leeks lengthwise down to -- but not through -- the root base. Then rinse them thoroughly under cool running water.

Tutti Frutti Farm, $1.50 per pound.

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russ.parsons@latimes.com